Climbs 21
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 195m a.s.l
Faces S

View Stats

Nic Bassnett on the fingery classic of Jota jota (6b) at Calvià. © Mike Hutton

Crag features

Hidden away in a tree infested gorge, close to the town of Calvia, is a little wall which offers some excellent slab and wall climbing. The crag is beautifully situated and very friendly, except perhaps on your finger tips!

The routes tend to be slabby but the crag steepens towards its left hand side offering some more sustained and steeper pitches.

Being situated in a woody valley, the crag is very sheltered in cold or windy weather, however this means it is also a sun trap in hot weather.

Approach notes

Leave Palma westwards on the motorway, towards Andratx. At the the Calvia junction follow the road towards Calvia village. Just before Calvia is reached take a right down a road signed "Col.legi Public" which bypasses the town. At the end of the road turn right and after 2km you will pass a rough gate on the left, just past a house called "San Boronat". A layby with room for 2 cars is found just after this on a bend. Negotiate the gate carefully and follow a well worn path for 75m then bear leftwards into the trees. (Approx 10 mins from the car layby).

Restricted Access

There have been access problems at this crag in the past, hopefully these problems have now been solved and access should now be allowed. However, if you are approached and asked to leave then please do so.

UPDATE Nov 22 - Possibly the access situation has now changed. The parking is largely blocked by boulders and the gate is quite solid and has No Access signs on it. The Crag website suggests a permit can be applied for online but we cannot verify this.

UPDATE Dec 23 - The parking described by the latest Rockfax guide/app is no longer accessible as all lay-bys have been filled with piles of gravel. The described gate is most definitely not for public access. The landowner clearly does not want people using the described access. Nevertheless, some of our group accessed the crag successfully, so consider this information when choosing your venue.

ACCESS UPDATE: the parking appears to be blocked by boulders. The gate is quite new and has No Access signs on it. The Crag website suggests you can get a permit online but we didn't bother and went to Puig de Garrafa instead.
mattgrange - 22/Nov/22
Arrived at the parking at 11.00, still aimlessly bashing through the woods at 15.00; went home with ragged legs and no ticks. Where is it?
Climbster - 13/Mar/15
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
Please Login or Register to log routes or add them to your wishlist
These climbs you have climbed clean.
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Loading Notifications...