Rockfax Description
70m. The best route here, being sustained and direct through the three tiers. Pitch two is high in the grade.
1. 20m 5a Start at the left side of the main section. Climb a slab and gain a smooth scoop; exit via a crack on the right to reach the lower terrace.
2. 25m 5b Directly above is another smoother scoop. From left of this, climb steeply up right to gain a shelf. Follow a left-trending fault and climb a rounded bulge and up to the upper terrace. Go right and belay below twin crack-lines, just right of a third crack.
3. 35m 5b Climb the twin cracks, the left-hand first to a bulge then the right-hand crack through the final bulge.
FA F.Fotheringham, A.Taylor, 11 Mar 1987 © Rockfax
Fraser Fotheringham & Alex Taylor 11/Mar/1987.
Ultimate Scottish Rock , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , Wired Scottish Rock Climbs ****
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Camas Point)