UKC

Climbs 166
Rocktype Greenstone
Altitude Tidal
Faces W

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Mercury - the obvious line © Kafoozalem

Crag features

Crag database finally sorted out!! Including: Sub-dividing into the many buttresses, putting the routes in the right areas, adding the correct grades and stars, adding daggers that don't have enough information to locate/identify. Hopefully this is useful - please provide any updates to repeated climbs (a lot of climbs in the guide are daggered / unrepeated).

Arguably the best crag in Cornwall but also one of the most complicated, consisting of many separate areas with different abseil approaches and complicated buttress-finding on first acquaintances. A bit of persistent and patience will reveal a host of adventurous routes from single pitch slabs to epic multi-pitches weaving through overhangs. There are classic routes of all grades but due to the nature of the terrain, an experienced and sensible approach is recommended.

Approach notes

From St Agnes on the N coast follow the minor coast road to a turning on the R. Follow rough track to parking near the coastguard station. Due west are most of the buttresses, except 400m NE are Black Walls and America Buttress. Some areas are tidal and abseil approaches are usually required.

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

1 July 2022 update: Peregrines are nesting on both MERCURY and AMERICA and the chicks have not yet fledged.

Climbing is restricted during the above dates between C Buttress to Baptist Cliff  inclusive and on America Buttress.

Once the chicks have left the nest sites the restrictions will be lifted.

Many thanks.

 

Further to previous comment and a general lack of updating by the moderator: Demerara is E2 5a with a huge fall potential from the slopey slab crux in the middle, this would be extremely dangerous for a VS leader to get on. Rotwand at least E1 5a - E1 pitch is the top 4c pitch with huge run out on fragile holds and mud. The extremes are better graded.
Fiend - 19/Jul/16
The routes listings are all from the older guidebook. There have been many changes since then to the grades, stars, and even existence of some routes.
Fiend - 26/May/07
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Climbs at this crag

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