55m.
A bold and brilliant line taking the most direct route up the steepest and most exposed section of Carn Liath crag.
Begin atop the central pillar at the base of the crag. Climb directly up a short corner onto some ledges, then trend left along a series of hollow flakes. After a few metres, the rock quality improves dramatically, leading up a ladder of ledges to the base of the imposing, prow-like overhang.
A well-placed cluster of positive gear—medium cams, small wires, and RPs—marks the start of the next challenge: 10 metres of bold, unprotected climbing. Climb directly onto the sloping ramp above, where a small left-hand edge and a sharp sidepull offer just enough to launch for a long, committing reach out right to a juggy undercut (Font 7A+). Two more moves lead to a good rest on jugs beneath the prow. CAUTION: A fall from this boulder problem may result in a ledge strike.
The next 8 metres are sustained and technical, with sidepulls, slopers, and crimps offering little respite. A runout of up to 10 metres ends at a glorious jug, where—assuming the gear below holds—any fall should swing you safely into space, well clear of the ground.
Mantle onto the jug and step right onto the exposed upper face. From here, continue up another 10 metres of unprotected climbing to reach a ledge. Step left to a higher ledge, where a pair of pockets provides the first gear in 20 metres—as well as a solid anchor for working the crux from a fixed line.
Finish by stepping left and climbing the final 5 metres of flaked rock (avoiding the dirty corner and lichen-covered roof to the right) to top out onto the grass above.
As the name humorously suggests, this is a serious and athletic testpiece with real fall potential and wild exposure—you’d have to be Away with the Faeries to climb it.
Begin atop the central pillar at the base of the crag. Climb directly up a short corner onto some ledges, then trend left along a series of hollow flakes. After a few metres, the rock quality improves dramatically, leading up a ladder of ledges to the base of the imposing, prow-like overhang.
A well-placed cluster of positive gear—medium cams, small wires, and RPs—marks the start of the next challenge: 10 metres of bold, unprotected climbing. Climb directly onto the sloping ramp above, where a small left-hand edge and a sharp sidepull offer just enough to launch for a long, committing reach out right to a juggy undercut (Font 7A+). Two more moves lead to a good rest on jugs beneath the prow. CAUTION: A fall from this boulder problem may result in a ledge strike.
The next 8 metres are sustained and technical, with sidepulls, slopers, and crimps offering little respite. A runout of up to 10 metres ends at a glorious jug, where—assuming the gear below holds—any fall should swing you safely into space, well clear of the ground.
Mantle onto the jug and step right onto the exposed upper face. From here, continue up another 10 metres of unprotected climbing to reach a ledge. Step left to a higher ledge, where a pair of pockets provides the first gear in 20 metres—as well as a solid anchor for working the crux from a fixed line.
Finish by stepping left and climbing the final 5 metres of flaked rock (avoiding the dirty corner and lichen-covered roof to the right) to top out onto the grass above.
As the name humorously suggests, this is a serious and athletic testpiece with real fall potential and wild exposure—you’d have to be Away with the Faeries to climb it.
Robbie Phillips 02/Apr/2025.
* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.
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Route of Interest
Moonrise Kingdom
Grade: E9 6b ***
(Coir' Uisg Buttress)