A route with a chequered history - this is thought to be the original line which has also been known as 'Pin Up'.
1) 5b, 15m. Gain a groove and follow it to blocky ledges.
2) 5c, 24m. Move up into a niche then a ledge under the roof. Pull over and follow the crack to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Described as 'Pin Up' in some guides, this is actually the line taken on the original Civetta ascent (Civetta has since been described in several contradicting ways).
Described in some guidebooks as E1 or E2 but a solid E3 by the described route.
Some excellent crack climbing that takes the right hand crack through the roof at the top of Penamnen Groove.
1) 15m 5b The shallow groove in the left arete of Civetta. The holds in the shallow groove can be reached via a long reach from the wall. Belay on top of the detached pinnacles.
2) 24m 5b/c Take the deceptively steep cracks up and left from the pinnacles, past a rectangular niche with a cunning but excellent no hands rest, to under the large roof just right of Penamen Groove. Bridge out and follow the cracks more easily to the top.
G Tinning (Originally climbed with 1 sling aid in 1964 by JV Anthoine & R James; later claimed as Pin Up by Gary Gibson, M Lyndon; Aug 82) 1979.
Preparation for the Resurrection
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