UKC

Restricted Access

Although situated on open access land the owners (Forestry Commission) from time to time are granted permisson to suspend public access to this venue in order to carry out forestry operations, including felling and timber extraction. However access to the cliff should not be affected, as long as climbers park in the village and walk up the track. Be aware that at some times due to forestry works that access might be limited, and forestry vehicles will be using the track.

36m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
1) 4c, 10m. Climb the wall to a belay just left of Lightning Visit.
2) 5b, 25m. Climb up to the arete and follow it, first on its left, then on the right towards the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
First pitch a steep 4c- Great position for second pitch following the hanging arete all the way to the top-5b with adequate protection.

Feedback

User Date Notes
planetmarshall 15 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The spike at the top of the hanging arete is unstable.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The spike at the top of the hanging arete is unstable.
George_Surf 6 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The guide is slightly misleading; it follows the arete (not just its left side) and crack, its very well protected as far as the ledge below the final 10m, this is where you climb up to a square cut rail on the right hand side, its a few committing 5b moves with gear a few metres below. From the flake rail (gear) continue up the right side of the arete to the top. A great line!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The guide is slightly misleading; it follows the arete (not just its left side) and crack, its very well protected as far as the ledge below the final 10m, this is where you climb up to a square cut rail on the right hand side, its a few committing 5b moves with gear a few metres below. From the flake rail (gear) continue up the right side of the arete to the top. A great line!

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 18
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 14
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Californian Arete

Grade: E1 4c ***
(California)

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