UKC

10m. On the headwall L of the upper crack of Zip Wall are 3 prominent cracks with thinner cracks between. This short but technical route follows the thin crack just R of the left hand most of the three prominent cracks. It is very well protected with hard-to-place small to medium wires. Start well up the gully from Zip Wall. The start point is best reached by descending the gully from the top or by going up the descent track until it is possible to traverse up and R on to a big flake bounding the gully (a direct approach up the gully looks vegetated and horrible). Belay on a jumble of blocks below the crack. Step across and up to the crack and climb a small niche to a mediocre pocket in the crack. Make a long reach (crux) to a better pocket and then incuts. Pass a break to a ledge and finish easily up a crack on the L side of the top block.

C. Calow, H. Walmsley 17/Jul/2017.

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Logged Ascents

1 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Carreg Mianog

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 1
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 1
Route of Interest
Phoenix

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Clogwyn yr Eryr (Crafnant))

Loading Notifications...