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Climbs 20
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)

Faces SW

Crag features

The climbing at Carrignacappul is based around three inlets facing westwards. The most southerly of the three inlets is bounded to the north by a long slab. A vertical fault-line divides the slab into two halfs. The right section is provided with plentiful holds, while the left section is smooth with some thin cracks and offers delightful, delicate slab climbing. The central inlet culminates in a large cave. Like the southern, the central inlet is bounded to the north by a Slab. The left edge of this slab forms a sharp arete as it points out to sea. The northern inlet is composed of a series of corners.

The rock consists of clean, sound mudstone with good gear. In general, the north side of each of the inlets is the more attractive as this is the side that receives the full force of the sea.

Approach notes

Follow the road through Durrus, Ahakista and the village of Kilcrohane. About 2km beyond Kilcrohane take a turn on the left signposted Dooneen Pier. At the bottom of the hill, just after passing a large bungalow on the right, where the road swings sharp left at a junction, there is limited parking on the right. Follow the track through a gate and strike off right parallel to the wall, heading for the highest point on the headland, which is just above a blowhole with some old fence posts around it. The central inlet is on the seaward side of the blowhole. Less than 5 minutes walk from the carpark.

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