UKC

50m. North facing at 1900m and visible from the road, with little avalanche risk, this climb is reliably in condition.
It is one big long hard pitch of ice. The first 15m are up the cone at 75 degrees, then 15-20m plum vertical, then 15m of 85 to 80 degree ice. Belay on the LHS on two bolts. Abseil down. There are bolts on the RHS on a small ledge after about 35m, but this complicates things by introducing a traverse. It will be easier to power on up, from the top of the vertical cigar as the route eases off a little at this point. Thoroughly recommended - a classic!

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