The most striking line of the crag and a Hard Rock tick although you are unlikely to get queues on this one! It was originally given HVS/A0 but the route is now usually climbed as a free route. In order to climb it free you need to catch it in drought conditions since the route seeps badly, in fact the final corner seeps in a drought but is climbable. Scramble up the gully to the base of a slab below the main roof-capped corner. With good rope work you can link the first two pitches.
1) 5a, 20m. Head up the slab and arrange some gear where the angle changes. Move out left to a crack and pull up and right up this to reach a right-facing groove. Climb this and exit left onto a ledge and belay.
2) 5b, 15m. Shuffle to the left-hand end of the ledge and arrange some gear. Move up the exposed rib to an awkward position. Place a crucial micro-cam then commit to a bold and balancy traverse up right to the base of the main corner and belay.
3) 6a, 20m. Top end 6a or easy 6b - you choose? Bridge up the amazing corner which is reasonably steady at first. Arrange a cluster of gear before the crux, which is a very powerful pull to swing right into the final chimney. Once in the chimney you can relax, as it is almost impossible to fall off, even if you are pumped. Head up the chimney more easily to the top. © Rockfax
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