A fantastic and varied route, with a pumpy first pitch that leads to a stunning climax in the upper groove. Start to the left of a grotty pillar, by a small cave.
1) 5c, 22m. Climb the awkward crack out of the cave and step right onto the wall above a thread. Go up to a roof (peg) then right again and up a bulging groove. Move right to the foot of another groove and climb this moving left at the top to a stance. Bolt belay.
2) 6a,15m. Move left to the black groove and climb it past a bolt. At the break traverse right to a belay. Abseil off or ....
3) 5b,10m. Move up left into a corner then up to a peg. Move left again and finish direct. Belay well back. © Rockfax
FA. R.Edwards, N.Metcalf, T.Jepson (3 pts) 11.10.75. FFA. Rowland Edwards 1976.
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