Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The annual nesting restriction covers the whole crag. Several protected species nest both on the crag and directly on the crag above the descent gully, and  the whole crag is restricted between the above dates. Keep an eye/ear open for the birds and for signs on the approach. If the birds fledge early or fail to nest then the signs will be removed.


The routes on the left hand side that are approached by abseil (Opal Moon) are also restricted due to nesting sea-birds and the restriction applies here even if restrictions are lifted for the remainder of the crag.

52m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fantastic and varied route, with a pumpy first pitch that leads to a stunning climax in the upper groove. Start to the left of a grotty pillar under a small cave.
1) 5c, 22m. Scramble up to the cave. Climb the awkward crack out of the cave and step right onto the wall above a thread. Go up to a roof (peg) then right again and up a bulging groove. Move right to the foot of another groove and climb this moving left at the top to a stance. Bolt belay.
2) 6a,15m. Move left to the black groove and climb it past a bolt. At the break traverse right to a belay. Abseil off or...
3) 5b, 10m. Move up left into a corner then up to a peg. Move left again and finish direct. Belay well back. © Rockfax

FA. R.Edwards, N.Metcalf, T.Jepson (3 pts) 11.10.75. FFA. Rowland Edwards 1976.


Extreme Rock , North Wales Rock Graded List , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , Ultimate E4 ticklist


There is no feedback for this climb.

Logged Ascents

115 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Castell y Gwynt

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 36 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 19
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 20
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Great Wall

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Craig y Forwyn)

Loading Notifications...