UKC

40m.

Rockfax Description
An outstanding route that wends its way up the rounded prow in an outrageous position. There are lots of threads and other fixed gear but a rack is required. Begin at the base of the arete. Move up right and then back left to the arete and continue to a cave. Make some difficult moves to exit the cave, then follow pockets up leftwards to an overhung niche. Pull out of the niche on the right and then head for a crack up left - hard. Take the crack and wall above it to the left end of the long capping roof. Finish up the broken and vegetated final wall to bolt belays. © Rockfax

FA. R.Edwards, P.Williams (2 pts) 3.8.77. FFA. K.Carrigan, D.Hall May 1981.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Ultimate E5 ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tim Neill 30 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Threads replaced and original start cleaned October 2021 as per described by LRob
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Threads replaced and original start cleaned October 2021 as per described by LRob
LRob 19 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: It's worth noting that the first 2 bolts at the start are a harder direct version. The original went up left and followed easier but looser ground to the cave. The Direct start was bolted and climbed by Neil Dyer, and adds a bit to the difficulty.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It's worth noting that the first 2 bolts at the start are a harder direct version. The original went up left and followed easier but looser ground to the cave. The Direct start was bolted and climbed by Neil Dyer, and adds a bit to the difficulty.

Logged Ascents

25 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Castell y Gwynt

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 9 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 8
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Telegraph Road

Grade: E5 6b ***
(Castell y Gwynt)

Loading Notifications...