Restricted Access
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
The annual nesting restriction covers the whole crag. Several protected species nest both on the crag and directly on the crag above the descent gully, and the whole crag is restricted between the above dates. Keep an eye/ear open for the birds and for signs on the approach. If the birds fledge early or fail to nest then the signs will be removed.
The routes on the left hand side that are approached by abseil (Opal Moon) are also restricted due to nesting sea-birds and the restriction applies here even if restrictions are lifted for the remainder of the crag.
Rockfax Description
An outstanding route that wends its way up the rounded prow in an outrageous position. There are lots of threads and other fixed gear but a rack is required. Begin at the base of the arete. Move up right and then back left to the arete and continue to a cave. Make some difficult moves to exit the cave, then follow pockets up leftwards to an overhung niche. Pull out of the niche on the right and then head for a crack up left - hard. Take the crack and wall above it to the left end of the long capping roof. Finish up the broken and vegetated final wall to bolt belays. © Rockfax
FA. R.Edwards, P.Williams (2 pts) 3.8.77. FFA. K.Carrigan, D.Hall May 1981.
Ticklists
North Wales Rock Graded List , Ultimate E5 ticklist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tim Neill | 30 Jul, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Threads replaced and original start cleaned October 2021 as per described by LRob | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Threads replaced and original start cleaned October 2021 as per described by LRob |
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| LRob | 19 Sep, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: It's worth noting that the first 2 bolts at the start are a harder direct version. The original went up left and followed easier but looser ground to the cave. The Direct start was bolted and climbed by Neil Dyer, and adds a bit to the difficulty. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: It's worth noting that the first 2 bolts at the start are a harder direct version. The original went up left and followed easier but looser ground to the cave. The Direct start was bolted and climbed by Neil Dyer, and adds a bit to the difficulty. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Castell y Gwynt
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Moonwind Direct
Grade: E5 6b ***
(Craig y Forwyn)