UKC

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The annual nesting restriction covers the whole crag. Several protected species nest both on the crag and directly on the crag above the descent gully, and  the whole crag is restricted between the above dates. Keep an eye/ear open for the birds and for signs on the approach. If the birds fledge early or fail to nest then the signs will be removed.

 

The routes on the left hand side that are approached by abseil (Opal Moon) are also restricted due to nesting sea-birds and the restriction applies here even if restrictions are lifted for the remainder of the crag.

88m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The original girdle which follows the break below the wide capping roof. Good protection and amazing exposed positions make this a great but gripping expedition. Start just right of a small cave, below an open groove.
1) 5a, 15m. Enter the groove from the right then follow it, moving left at the top to belay on a ledge.
2) 5a, 25m. Move up onto an arete on the left. Follow this then step left onto the wall and move up to the break under the capping roof. Follow the break leftwards to the New Dimensions belay.
3) 5b, 25m. Continue traversing left to a wide recess and big thread. Then descend 5m to a bolt belay on the lower break.
4) 5c, 27m. Move left to a scoop then follow a break to the arete. Go left again to a short wall and finish up leftwards.
4a) Watling Street, E2 5c - Climb back up to below the capping roof and traverse the break under it to rejoin the parent line. © Rockfax

FA. R.Edwards, J.Perry Mar/1977.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , The Road to Shibboleth , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Extreme Girdle , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
Misha 28 Dec, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: When you top out up steep grass, there’s a very rusty bolt and some ok natural gear up left. Alternatively, there are shiny bolts up right.
Show beta
βeta: When you top out up steep grass, there’s a very rusty bolt and some ok natural gear up left. Alternatively, there are shiny bolts up right.
Misha 6 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The RF description involving going down 5m to a bolt belay and then back up is the original line according to NWL. However continuing to pump along the main break line is far more logical.
Show beta
βeta: The RF description involving going down 5m to a bolt belay and then back up is the original line according to NWL. However continuing to pump along the main break line is far more logical.
Misha 6 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The guide book suggests cams up to 4. You can place a 4 in one or two places on the last pitch but a 3 (big blue) and a couple of yellows do the job.
Show beta
βeta: The guide book suggests cams up to 4. You can place a 4 in one or two places on the last pitch but a 3 (big blue) and a couple of yellows do the job.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Castell y Gwynt

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 21
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 20
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Jaw Breaker

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Eigiau slab)

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