Due to the ongoing spread of Coronavirus, Spain has banned all climbing. Continuing to do so not only puts people at risk, but can also put more strain on emergency workers. Please do not climb here.
Altitude 197m a.s.l
Richard Davies repeating his own route. © Richard Davies
This north-facing crag is an excellent addition to the Calp area crags. It is situated high above the N332, just past the Mascarat tunnels on the approach to Calp. The Castellet de Calp is the remains of a watchtower that served to prevent Berber pirate assaults. These days the walls below it have been developed to give a great set of routes in the mid-to-hard grades. They offer a shady retreat in hot weather, something in short supply in this area. The routes tend to be vertical or gently overhanging on reasonable rock, although there are some loose sections. Several routes have been extended upwards to give superb pitches higher up on the walls.
Castellet de Calp can be approached easily from either Maryvilla, or the big development at Pueblo de Mascarat. From Calp, turn into Maryvilla, then follow signs to Castellet de Calp - right, sharp right then straight on - and park at a left-hand bend with a track heading off to the right. Walk up the track and continue steeply up the hill towards the castellet. Pick up a small path by a pylon and follow this down and around to the face.
The alternative approach from Pueblo de Mascarat involves turning off the N332 and following the road down (parking spot for Mascarat Gorge), then turn left and zig-zag up the hill. Park at a high point where the tarmac road ends. Don't go up the steep concrete road, since parking at the top of this is difficult (and incredibly steep). Walk down to a track from the parking spot and turn left up the hill to join the other approach.
|An excellent crag in the shade all day. Great routes in the main section with good gear. The upper and lower sections look abandoned and bolts rusty. Many of the routes should be regraded because some super softies here which does detract a little from the experience. |
|A great convenient and shady crag! Not sure why the stars are missing on some of the lines. Everything we did was excellent; on the list to go back to.|
Dave Warburton -
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