5 pitches.
One of the best multi-pitches, with a bit of everything in it. Start from a cave just right of half-way up the second fixed line.
1) Head up and around right of the initial stalactite system, then take a deep breath (with possible knee-and-hand-bar rest) and launch out across the roof, tending right, and final escaping right before it gets horizontal. Belay on huge ledge (F6c+).
[update Jan-2014 Pitch recently re-bolted and now seems harder and more direct. (7a+)]
2) Head over the bulge, up the wall, and somehow fight through the hanging gallery (F6c), or escape around to the left (F6b, but lots of bad swing potential).
3) The tufa / stalactite system up, slightly right then back left, feels much easier, but still has its moments (F6c).
4) The climbing turns from powerful to technical whilst winding your way through the next section of tufas / stalactites, and finishes by "threading the needle" to a terrific stance (F6c).
5) From the forth belay, question why you brought a second rope with you, but take it anyway, as, although you can only see 10 m of rock, this pitch initially climbs the sharp rock up and to the right, then moves on to flatter technical wall-climbing for another 25 m. (F6c+, possibly slightly harder).
...Don't worry, no matter how hard a move you think you've done thus far, the crux is still to come...
Lower off the top pitch, backclip down pitches 4 & 3 (best not to do them together, though the rope will reach), then enjoy the final 60 m rap in free space down the final two pitches. Amazing line to about the highest point in Ton Sai.
1) Head up and around right of the initial stalactite system, then take a deep breath (with possible knee-and-hand-bar rest) and launch out across the roof, tending right, and final escaping right before it gets horizontal. Belay on huge ledge (F6c+).
[update Jan-2014 Pitch recently re-bolted and now seems harder and more direct. (7a+)]
2) Head over the bulge, up the wall, and somehow fight through the hanging gallery (F6c), or escape around to the left (F6b, but lots of bad swing potential).
3) The tufa / stalactite system up, slightly right then back left, feels much easier, but still has its moments (F6c).
4) The climbing turns from powerful to technical whilst winding your way through the next section of tufas / stalactites, and finishes by "threading the needle" to a terrific stance (F6c).
5) From the forth belay, question why you brought a second rope with you, but take it anyway, as, although you can only see 10 m of rock, this pitch initially climbs the sharp rock up and to the right, then moves on to flatter technical wall-climbing for another 25 m. (F6c+, possibly slightly harder).
...Don't worry, no matter how hard a move you think you've done thus far, the crux is still to come...
Lower off the top pitch, backclip down pitches 4 & 3 (best not to do them together, though the rope will reach), then enjoy the final 60 m rap in free space down the final two pitches. Amazing line to about the highest point in Ton Sai.
Zappe and Shamik 2/2000 Feb/2000.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rich Jenkin | 19 Feb |
Show βeta
βeta: We we're advised to fix a line from the top of the 2nd pitch to the top of the 4th pitch so we could rapell the overhangs in one go on 2 ropes. Worked well. We did the 5th pitch on a 80m rope which had been chopped slightly at each end. (The leader passed the halfway marker by a couple of meters) so pretty sure a 70m rope would have been relying on strech. Recommend a full 80m. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: We we're advised to fix a line from the top of the 2nd pitch to the top of the 4th pitch so we could rapell the overhangs in one go on 2 ropes. Worked well. We did the 5th pitch on a 80m rope which had been chopped slightly at each end. (The leader passed the halfway marker by a couple of meters) so pretty sure a 70m rope would have been relying on strech. Recommend a full 80m. |
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Route of Interest
Roots Rock Reggae
Grade: 6c+ ***
(Marley Wall)