UKC

Climbs 66
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 71m a.s.l
Faces N

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Emma Harrington on Trade Union (6a+) on the slabby right section of Cattedrale nel Deserto. © Daimon Beail

Crag features

Cattedrale nel Deserto was one of the first areas to be developed in the area back in the 1980s. As is usually the case, this means a mixed bag of offerings ranging from forgotten old mixed routes to newly rebolted sport climbs with hard extensions. The faces are generally smooth and vertical offering technical and sustained wall climbs. There are a few multi-pitch challenges on the tallest section, but the main attraction is the beautiful central wall with its very long complex series of sport climbs. To the right the rock changes to present smooth gray slabs with a number of excellent technical routes.

Cattedrale is being rebolted and the new lines often add extra sections and independent lower-offs or extensions. Be wary of old bolts which have yet to be replaced. Make sure you have a long (80m plus) rope, although even that isn't long enough for some of the pitches where you need to descend in stages.

Approach notes

Go around the headland away from San Vito Lo Capo and on south following the eastern faces of Monte Monaco along the SP63. When below the face there is an off-road parking area on the right starting by number 54 and running parallel to the road for approximately 150m. This area is also used to access property, so please park considerately.  In the centre of the parking area is a fence and gate by a tree - go through this and continue directly between four abandoned buildings. Follow the path up the hill following cairns as you go. As building continues the path/access may change.

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