UKC

55m, 2 pitches. Historical route on the left part of the crag. The original route and the modern sport line differs in the second pitch, where the modern solution stays out right the obvious dihedral. The original second pitch is a beautiful trad climb, re-discovered after a long period of carelessness.

Original route:
(double rack up to #1, single #2 and #3, wires)
P1. Slab (sport) as for the re-bolted modern line. Take the first belay in this case! (6a+).
P2. Climb the crack that cut the overhang and continue more easly above. Enter the second dihedral towards the big roof. When it finishes, exit with a delicate sequence toward right heading to the final crack. A beautiful straight thin crack leads to the top of the crag where you can either belay at the first anchor (on the right of the crack) or at a second one on the left in a comfy big ledge (6b, R1+).

Original route variant:
P2. Start on the left of the anchor passing the shallow roof on this side. Continue in the dihedral above eventually climbing the flake above. At the top of the flake traverse rightwards to join the main original route (same grade).

Sport line:
P1. Slab. The anchor is not the first one, it is the one soon after on the right, beyond the edge of the dihedral itself (6a+).
P2. Slab and more vertical bulges at the top out. The line is the one following aside the obvious crack, on the left there is "Mughetti..." (6a).

Descent: abseil on the route, or by walk on the right (face to the valley).

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Route of Interest
Piedi di Burro

Grade: 6a+ ***
(Cava di Borgone)

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