385m, 14 pitches.
Sybil Head
Approach Take the coast road to Ferriters Cove. After passing the golf course continue along the road to reach the highest house on the hill from where a short section of track leads to a grassy parking area on the right. Even from a long distance away, the top of the ridge which the route takes is visible as a rocky knoll some 300m to the left of the obvious lookout tower.
From the parking follow tracks uphill until it is possible to contour left to this point. (20 minutes)
Tale a breather on the the grassy slopes opposite where the whole route is now visible (deep breath!). PS.The farmers are very friendly, smile and say hello, and obviously, don’t damage their fences. General
Sybil Head is one of the most spectacular coastal features in Ireland. This climb takes the massive stepped ridge that projects dramatically into the ocean. The route is extremely long and exposed and should not be attempted in bad weather, particularly if high winds are forecast. Access to and escape from the ridge is complicated and rescue in the event of injury would be very difficult. Take spare clothes, food and a head torch. It should be obvious from your first sight of the ridge that this is a route for competent parties. The rock is an incredibly knobbly conglomerate which is generally solid. However, it snags ropes very, very easily - expect some delays because of this. Use long extenders and don’t be tempted to run pitches together. Runner placements are less frequent than might be expected on such featured rock. Take lots of long slings. Large hexes are also very useful. The route does not appear to be affected by nesting birds and the approach is non tidal except in very high seas when the first pitch may be swamped.
Getting to the start
As you face the crag a prominent darker boulder and a series of descending grass ledges are visible. The descent starts from a twin bolt belay which is slightly lower and10m to the left of the boulder. From here descend diagonally leftwards for 45m to a second bolt belay. Continue in the same line to further bolt belays that are 22m and 20m metres further along. The last of these bolts are in a recess below a slabby wall with a grass ledge above it. Climb up to the grassy ledge (20m) and at its left end are the anchors for the abseil approach. (Note that it is instead possible to continue the descending traverse for a further 20m to a different set of bolts. The hangers have been removed as this proved to be a 70m free hanging abseil that led to a dead end) Abseil into the chimney and aim for the slab wall on the left. On the first ascent a 100m static rope was used which was left in situ as a precaution. It was subsequently retrieved during the ascent. It should be possible to complete the descent using shorter ropes by finding an intermediate belay and either abseiling again or down climbing. The angle eases towards the base of the slab and it becomes possible to scramble leftwards (facing in) to arrive at a shallow gully which leads down around the corner to a belay at the foot of a large corner crack. This is nearly the most seaward point of the ridge. If you manage all this in less than an hour you have done well. The climb starts here.
The route 1. 35m (4b) Climb up and around the corner crack to arrive at a good ledge
2. 20m Either climb the chimney or pass it on the outside to gain another
niche stance
3. 20m Traverse left from the stance to reach a knife edge section and then
follow easy black ledges on the North side to a belay
4. 30m (4a) Climb the chimney to the large chockstone then move steeply
left (obvious thread) and regain the crest which is followed to the next
break in the ridge
5. 40m Follow the ridge as it descends to arrive at a foot of another wall.
6. 35m (4a) Climb the wall up and slightly rightwards to gain a short chimney
which leads to the entry abseil station. (if an ab rope has been left in situ
retrieve it and carry it for the rest of the route, don’t drag it, it will snag)
7. 15m Climb above the belay and traverse rightwards along the crest to a
cave. Pass the pinnacle on the North side or over the top if it’s not too
windy to reach a thread belay.
8. 20 m Follow the ridge to a huge flake belay
9. 30m (4c) Climb above the belay keeping to the left of the chimney. A steep
move leads to big holds and the flake crack above. From here move
slightly left and up to gain the ridge again. Not much gear on this pitch. 10. 10m Follow the ridge easily to another belay with a thread low down to
the left. ( An escape to the grass gully on the left may be possible here
reducing the overall grade to HVS but this then omits the final 4 pitches).
11. 25m (5b) The route now throws a boulder problem into the mix.
Overcome the blunt nose which has a good cam slot to gain a ledge.
Climb past the spongey recess on it’s left to reach the ridge. Along this
for a short distance to thread and spike belays.
The ridge rears fiercely above this point. There are number of steep direct options but these would probably be significantly harder than all that has gone before and are not in keeping with the route. Therefore….. 12. 40m Descend easy slabs on the right side of the ridge, crossing over a
little subsidiary ridge to arrive at the foot of an obvious chimney on the
left
13. 15m Climb the chimney 14. 50m Follow the solid and delightfully easy slabs to the top of the ridge Walk off from here. You’re done!
The first 6 pitches of the climb were previously ascended on 22 August but gales and heavy rain forced a retreat from the abseil point used on the approach. However, these pitches include the most spectacular rock scenery on the route and are worthy of a route name in their own right. Escape at the end of pitch 6 would be by reversing the line of approach ‘Yer small Man’ *** 180m VS 4b
Approach Take the coast road to Ferriters Cove. After passing the golf course continue along the road to reach the highest house on the hill from where a short section of track leads to a grassy parking area on the right. Even from a long distance away, the top of the ridge which the route takes is visible as a rocky knoll some 300m to the left of the obvious lookout tower.
From the parking follow tracks uphill until it is possible to contour left to this point. (20 minutes)
Tale a breather on the the grassy slopes opposite where the whole route is now visible (deep breath!). PS.The farmers are very friendly, smile and say hello, and obviously, don’t damage their fences. General
Sybil Head is one of the most spectacular coastal features in Ireland. This climb takes the massive stepped ridge that projects dramatically into the ocean. The route is extremely long and exposed and should not be attempted in bad weather, particularly if high winds are forecast. Access to and escape from the ridge is complicated and rescue in the event of injury would be very difficult. Take spare clothes, food and a head torch. It should be obvious from your first sight of the ridge that this is a route for competent parties. The rock is an incredibly knobbly conglomerate which is generally solid. However, it snags ropes very, very easily - expect some delays because of this. Use long extenders and don’t be tempted to run pitches together. Runner placements are less frequent than might be expected on such featured rock. Take lots of long slings. Large hexes are also very useful. The route does not appear to be affected by nesting birds and the approach is non tidal except in very high seas when the first pitch may be swamped.
Getting to the start
As you face the crag a prominent darker boulder and a series of descending grass ledges are visible. The descent starts from a twin bolt belay which is slightly lower and10m to the left of the boulder. From here descend diagonally leftwards for 45m to a second bolt belay. Continue in the same line to further bolt belays that are 22m and 20m metres further along. The last of these bolts are in a recess below a slabby wall with a grass ledge above it. Climb up to the grassy ledge (20m) and at its left end are the anchors for the abseil approach. (Note that it is instead possible to continue the descending traverse for a further 20m to a different set of bolts. The hangers have been removed as this proved to be a 70m free hanging abseil that led to a dead end) Abseil into the chimney and aim for the slab wall on the left. On the first ascent a 100m static rope was used which was left in situ as a precaution. It was subsequently retrieved during the ascent. It should be possible to complete the descent using shorter ropes by finding an intermediate belay and either abseiling again or down climbing. The angle eases towards the base of the slab and it becomes possible to scramble leftwards (facing in) to arrive at a shallow gully which leads down around the corner to a belay at the foot of a large corner crack. This is nearly the most seaward point of the ridge. If you manage all this in less than an hour you have done well. The climb starts here.
The route 1. 35m (4b) Climb up and around the corner crack to arrive at a good ledge
2. 20m Either climb the chimney or pass it on the outside to gain another
niche stance
3. 20m Traverse left from the stance to reach a knife edge section and then
follow easy black ledges on the North side to a belay
4. 30m (4a) Climb the chimney to the large chockstone then move steeply
left (obvious thread) and regain the crest which is followed to the next
break in the ridge
5. 40m Follow the ridge as it descends to arrive at a foot of another wall.
6. 35m (4a) Climb the wall up and slightly rightwards to gain a short chimney
which leads to the entry abseil station. (if an ab rope has been left in situ
retrieve it and carry it for the rest of the route, don’t drag it, it will snag)
7. 15m Climb above the belay and traverse rightwards along the crest to a
cave. Pass the pinnacle on the North side or over the top if it’s not too
windy to reach a thread belay.
8. 20 m Follow the ridge to a huge flake belay
9. 30m (4c) Climb above the belay keeping to the left of the chimney. A steep
move leads to big holds and the flake crack above. From here move
slightly left and up to gain the ridge again. Not much gear on this pitch. 10. 10m Follow the ridge easily to another belay with a thread low down to
the left. ( An escape to the grass gully on the left may be possible here
reducing the overall grade to HVS but this then omits the final 4 pitches).
11. 25m (5b) The route now throws a boulder problem into the mix.
Overcome the blunt nose which has a good cam slot to gain a ledge.
Climb past the spongey recess on it’s left to reach the ridge. Along this
for a short distance to thread and spike belays.
The ridge rears fiercely above this point. There are number of steep direct options but these would probably be significantly harder than all that has gone before and are not in keeping with the route. Therefore….. 12. 40m Descend easy slabs on the right side of the ridge, crossing over a
little subsidiary ridge to arrive at the foot of an obvious chimney on the
left
13. 15m Climb the chimney 14. 50m Follow the solid and delightfully easy slabs to the top of the ridge Walk off from here. You’re done!
The first 6 pitches of the climb were previously ascended on 22 August but gales and heavy rain forced a retreat from the abseil point used on the approach. However, these pitches include the most spectacular rock scenery on the route and are worthy of a route name in their own right. Escape at the end of pitch 6 would be by reversing the line of approach ‘Yer small Man’ *** 180m VS 4b
Mike Barry 1980.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| colin struthers | 16 Oct, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: A few points worth adding here 1. the source of record for climbing, and specifically for notifying first ascents in Ireland is a website called climbing.ie There have been notes about climbs at Ceann Sibeal on this website for at least 5 years. they detail much shorter routes on adjoining sections of the crag. There is absolutely no reference to any previous ascent of the main ridge. This was obviously the first place we looked when trying to establish if our climb was a first ascent. 2. We also spoke with a local climber and canoeist who lives within sight of Ceann Sibeal and who gave us permission to use his photo of the crag in our write up. He was not aware of any previous ascent. Indeed, it was his website which, several years ago, noted the challenge of the main ridge as an unclimbed line and which intially gave us the impetus to give it a try 3. We spoke a local farmer on whose land we think the crag is located. She was not aware of the ridge having been climbed. 4. the ascent in question is a major climb on an outstanding feature of the Irish Coast. One might reasonably have expected to find some record of a previous ascent and we thought it very unlikely that a climb of such stature could have gone unrecorded. 5. Since the coverage of this matter I have had a perfectly friendly exchange with Mike who informed me that he did log his ascent with Mountaineering Ireland but that for some reason this information never made it onto any contemporary websites or publications. I think Mike accepts that our assumption that we had climbed a new route was consistent with the information available to us and that our record of a first ascent was made in good faith. Mike has asked me to adjust our write up of the climb and I am happy to do so. We have agreed to leave my detailed description of the line of the climb online as this will be useful to others who may do the route in the future 6. It is a pity that the Irish Independent didn't include any of this context in their report. But then a story about a 'row', albeit a non existent one, probably makes better copy. In actual fact Mike has suggested we get together for 'a pint of plain' when I next return to climb in Ireland and I am happy to accept his invitation Mike has asked that the name of the climb be recorded as Dromlach Ceann Sibeal and that the first ascent details be adjusted. As I'm not the crag moderator I don't think I can do this but I am happy to see the information corrected | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: A few points worth adding here 1. the source of record for climbing, and specifically for notifying first ascents in Ireland is a website called climbing.ie There have been notes about climbs at Ceann Sibeal on this website for at least 5 years. they detail much shorter routes on adjoining sections of the crag. There is absolutely no reference to any previous ascent of the main ridge. This was obviously the first place we looked when trying to establish if our climb was a first ascent. 2. We also spoke with a local climber and canoeist who lives within sight of Ceann Sibeal and who gave us permission to use his photo of the crag in our write up. He was not aware of any previous ascent. Indeed, it was his website which, several years ago, noted the challenge of the main ridge as an unclimbed line and which intially gave us the impetus to give it a try 3. We spoke a local farmer on whose land we think the crag is located. She was not aware of the ridge having been climbed. 4. the ascent in question is a major climb on an outstanding feature of the Irish Coast. One might reasonably have expected to find some record of a previous ascent and we thought it very unlikely that a climb of such stature could have gone unrecorded. 5. Since the coverage of this matter I have had a perfectly friendly exchange with Mike who informed me that he did log his ascent with Mountaineering Ireland but that for some reason this information never made it onto any contemporary websites or publications. I think Mike accepts that our assumption that we had climbed a new route was consistent with the information available to us and that our record of a first ascent was made in good faith. Mike has asked me to adjust our write up of the climb and I am happy to do so. We have agreed to leave my detailed description of the line of the climb online as this will be useful to others who may do the route in the future 6. It is a pity that the Irish Independent didn't include any of this context in their report. But then a story about a 'row', albeit a non existent one, probably makes better copy. In actual fact Mike has suggested we get together for 'a pint of plain' when I next return to climb in Ireland and I am happy to accept his invitation Mike has asked that the name of the climb be recorded as Dromlach Ceann Sibeal and that the first ascent details be adjusted. As I'm not the crag moderator I don't think I can do this but I am happy to see the information corrected |
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| Tom G | 15 Oct, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: The first ascent claim is contested: Renowned Irish climber Mike Barry claims to have climbed this in the ‘80s. https://www.pressreader.com/ireland/sunday-indep It should be noted that the claim was made in good faith, as records are scarce. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The first ascent claim is contested: Renowned Irish climber Mike Barry claims to have climbed this in the ‘80s. https://www.pressreader.com/ireland/sunday-indep It should be noted that the claim was made in good faith, as records are scarce. |
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| Only a Crag | 14 Oct, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: This first ascent claim is heavily contested https://www.independent.ie/irish-news/irish-climbers-puzzled-as-english-pair-claim-to-be-first-to-ascend-dramatic-ridge-route-on-kerrys-ceann-sibeal/a98926733.html | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: This first ascent claim is heavily contested https://www.independent.ie/irish-news/irish-climbers-puzzled-as-english-pair-claim-to-be-first-to-ascend-dramatic-ridge-route-on-kerrys-ceann-sibeal/a98926733.html |
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Logged Ascents
There are no ascents logged for this climb.
Route of Interest
Abyss
Grade: E1 5b ***
(The Black Cliff)