UKC

Climbs 276
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 393m a.s.l
Faces S

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A beautiful December morning at the Dentelles de Montmirail. © jon

Crag features

A long line of limestone crags orientated east to west giving mainly south facing routes, though there are a handful of routes on the shady side that are cool in the summer months.

Mainly single or multi-pitch sport routes but there are also a few multi-pitched routes which are 'terrain d'aventure' (trad with the odd bolt or peg).

The new 2016 guidebook (which includes all the crags of the Dentelles) is now out - with an extra 60 new routes and many extensions up to 40m at Clapis alone. Just to note, the 2010 guidebook detailed newly developed areas on the South side of La Chaine de Gigondas and the North side of La Chaine de Clapis - also extensive development of mainly harder routes around the Cascade/St Christophe area.

For consistency the local guidebook is used for the route grades. Those used to normal French grades will undoubtedly find the gradings here harsh. Aficionados of a certain Greek island will likely have a coronary...

Approach notes

From Lafare drive a short way south-west in the direction of Beaumes de Venise and take either the first or second very narrow tarmacked road on the right. The roads join and after about another km lead to the main parking area in the trees at the top of the vineyards under the south face of Clapis, just after a Domaine. There's a big sign in the upper car park giving details about the (summer) resident Egyptian Vultures. The well defined path starts next to this and leads to the crag in about 20 minutes. It's also possible to approach the sectors at the extreme left or right of the crag from the Col d'Alsau or the parking at the bottom of the Cascade secteur of St Christophe respectively.

Access Advice

During very dry periods, especially when a strong mistral is forecast, access to the Dentelles Massif as a whole can be restricted due to fire risk. http://www.risque-prevention-incendie.fr/vaucluse/

Rockfax Digital

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Rockfax Digital brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

France : Haute Provence

The first in a series of selective guidebooks, France: Haute Provence presents many of the finest sport climbing destinations in the world together in one clear and colourful book. Covering all the best areas from the magnificent walls of Céüse in the north to the impeccable climbing playground of Buoux to the south, this book has a lifetime’s worth of climbing waiting on its pages.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Grimpe aux Dentelles 2 (2016)

Rockfax guide book, actual lines of climbs, and naming of routes as painted on the rock seem very much not aligned.
Dorte Bjerre Steensgaard - 31/Mar/17
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Climbs at this crag

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