UKC

Sport, 720 ft (218 m), 8 pitches

This new route follows a series of buttresses roughly parallel to Frontside 180 from the bottom of Mt Chek to the top. The route is well bolted, but still offers an adventurous feel.

Pitch 1: 5.6 Pleasant slab climbing leads an interesting move surmounting the hollow dagger, ramble up more slab to a two bolt belay on the ledge shared with Penalty Card and Gentleman’s Flip. Belay here and move the belay to the Pitch 2 anchors, or rip up the handline to the anchors and belay from there.

Pitch 2: 5.8 The crux of the route. Thoughtful slab climbing leads to a tenuous step right, then easier ground. The headwall, though intimidating from below, provides little resistance. Move the belay, and hike up the obvious slab and into the woods to the base of Pitch 3.

Pitch 3: 5.7 Edgy slab climbing leads to a fun move surmounting the headwall. Move the belay to the base of pitch 4.

Pitch 4: 5.6 Pleasant easy slab climbing. From the anchors here, move the belay to the upper section of the route. Follow the flagged trail uphill, and then take a handline down to a gulley with an obvious trail right to pitch 5.

Pitch 5: 5.4 Easy climbing up an arete leads to a spacious ledge belay. This pitch and pitch 6 can be linked if desired.

Pitch 6: 5.7 Traverse hard right with the crux move right off the belay. Large feet make most of this pitch feel quite easy.

Pitch 7: 5.7 Strenuous moves up a dihedral lead to a small ledge, from here use tree stems and a large jug flake to surmount a small vertical wall. This pitch and pitch 8 can be linked with a 60m rope.

Pitch 8: 5.4 A long pitch of easy glory rambling leads to the summit. Enjoy the beautiful views and wild atmosphere


“How Did I Get Here? (This Is Not My Beautiful House, This Is Not My Beautiful Wife, Where Is That Large Automobile?).”

Maltman, James C., Ethan Somji, Jacob Aragones, Seton Kriese, Bella Ledrew Guthrie, and Settare Shariati.

* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.

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Voting
High 5.9
Mid 5.9
Low 5.9
High 5.8
Mid 5.8
Low 5.8
High 5.7
Mid 5.7
Low 5.7
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 1
Route of Interest
Mikey Likes it

Grade: 5.8 ***
(Commune)

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