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Start just left of the corner. Follow a line of staples to a junction with SSB and follow that route to a semi-rest in the corner. Gain the flake above and swing right along its top. Struggle on up and over the final roof to a resting place. Push on up the headwall to an abseil station.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, Classic UK F7s, Bill's 2016 Sweepstake 20, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet)

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 29 Jun Lead RP
Caspian Johnson 26 Jun Lead RP Immaculate climbing. The hype is real. Not a giveaway at the grade either. Had to try hard between rests bit felt steady in the end despite a wobbly leg on the final slab.
with ollie_e
Immaculate climbing. The hype is real. Not a giveaway at the grade either. Had to try hard between rests bit felt steady in the end despite a wobbly leg on the final slab.
with ollie_e
tobydunford 26 Jun Lead RP Amazing variety of climbing and positions. An outstanding route, so pleased to get it just before ban comes in.
Amazing variety of climbing and positions. An outstanding route, so pleased to get it just before ban comes in.
Hidden 26 Jun -
S.Kew 23 Jun Lead RP
J1_TOV 19 Jun Lead rpt Fitness lap. Completely dry after 2 days of downpour.
Fitness lap. Completely dry after 2 days of downpour.
Cass31 19 Jun Lead RP
with J1_TOV
with J1_TOV
dan gibson 16 Jun Lead RP One of the best in the country. 7c+
One of the best in the country. 7c+
tobydunford 15 Jun Lead dog
J1_TOV 13 Jun Lead rpt Decided to dog it as a warm up but before I knew it I found myself up on the slab. Sent with way less noise than the first time and 10 mins quicker.
Decided to dog it as a warm up but before I knew it I found myself up on the slab. Sent with way less noise than the first time and 10 mins quicker.
J1_TOV 8 Jun Lead RP Pump beyond belief. Not on the steep sections, but on the slab! Best mid grade route in Cheddar. This #1 and bird of paradise #2. Just stunning.
Pump beyond belief. Not on the steep sections, but on the slab! Best mid grade route in Cheddar. This #1 and bird of paradise #2. Just stunning.
Eder 31 May Lead O/S Nice one! One of the best on this island, but ones again i was unpleasantly surprised by the Bolting. Especially for the first couple of bolts, the rope runs through a few really sharp edges which could easily be avoided with good bolting, this would also improve the rope drag at the top. Obviously this could all be sorted using huge slings/extended quickdraws and a clip stick, which i don't carry on me when i am onsight climbing.
Nice one! One of the best on this island, but ones again i was unpleasantly surprised by the Bolting. Especially for the first couple of bolts, the rope runs through a few really sharp edges which could easily be avoided with good bolting, this would also improve the rope drag at the top. Obviously this could all be sorted using huge slings/extended quickdraws and a clip stick, which i don't carry on me when i am onsight climbing.
Wise u 5 Jun, 2019 Lead RP Start was a bit of a battle but got everything back in the rest. Managed to back clip our "extender of doom" above shield but kept it all together to sort it out. Really in the zone pulling through the roof but wobbled up the top wall with some redpoint nerves.
Start was a bit of a battle but got everything back in the rest. Managed to back clip our "extender of doom" above shield but kept it all together to sort it out. Really in the zone pulling through the roof but wobbled up the top wall with some redpoint nerves.
Wise u 22 May, 2019 Lead dog Got to past the shield before running out of steam.
Got to past the shield before running out of steam.
Wise u 19 May, 2019 Lead dog Led clean to half height lower off.
with S.Kew
Led clean to half height lower off.
with S.Kew
Cassidy 17 May, 2019 Lead β
with Rob Sutton
with Rob Sutton
Wise u 12 May, 2019 TR dog 27/6/18 Stunning route. Just one move to work out getting over the last roof. It feels hard. Can't wait for the season to open again. 12/5/19 Account reopened
27/6/18 Stunning route. Just one move to work out getting over the last roof. It feels hard. Can't wait for the season to open again. 12/5/19 Account reopened
C coldwell-storry 28 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S Never lets up right to the end. Had to engage battle mode
with Jake Rogers
Never lets up right to the end. Had to engage battle mode
with Jake Rogers
jacobjohncharles 5 Sep, 2018 Lead RP 1st redpoint
1st redpoint
felixwilkins 5 Sep, 2018 Lead RP
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing u 2 Sep, 2018 Lead RP As many have said before, this has to be one of the best of its grade anywhere in the country - there’s so much climbing on it! The start is hard, the middle is physical, and the top delicate. What a route...
As many have said before, this has to be one of the best of its grade anywhere in the country - there’s so much climbing on it! The start is hard, the middle is physical, and the top delicate. What a route...
Duncan Campbell u 2 Sep, 2018 Lead dog Just one go up - brilliant but pretty hard with lots of sections with no feet! Will be back for this one day for sure... onsighting this is a seriously good effort as it’s not only hard but tricky to read and insecure. Top is so fluffable also
Just one go up - brilliant but pretty hard with lots of sections with no feet! Will be back for this one day for sure... onsighting this is a seriously good effort as it’s not only hard but tricky to read and insecure. Top is so fluffable also
blaza1 28 Jun, 2018 Lead RP Put clips in and then sent :-) great route, amazing sunny connies
Put clips in and then sent :-) great route, amazing sunny connies
Hidden 21 Jun, 2018 Lead dog
Hidden 21 Jun, 2018 Lead RP
blaza1 17 Jun, 2018 Lead dog Not great connies, cool route
Not great connies, cool route
Tom Corras 2 Nov, 2017 Lead RP
Hidden 22 Jun, 2017 Lead dog
Hidden 16 Jun, 2017 Lead dog
Wise u 23 Apr, 2017 TR dog Seems quite hard. Bottom half only and couldn't do one of the moves.
with Matt, DorsetGareth
Seems quite hard. Bottom half only and couldn't do one of the moves.
with Matt, DorsetGareth
DorsetGareth 23 Apr, 2017 TR dnf Felt hard. Worked the first half.
Felt hard. Worked the first half.
Hidden 1 Jan, 2017 Lead
Bristoldave 24 Sep, 2016 Lead dnf
with long
with long
PeterDawson 8 Jun, 2016 Lead β
Billg 5 Jun, 2016 Lead RP Very glad to clip the belay after dropping the first redpoint on the very last move. A superb route
with Will Calvert
Very glad to clip the belay after dropping the first redpoint on the very last move. A superb route
with Will Calvert
Billg 5 Jun, 2016 Lead RP Very glad to clip the belay after dropping the first redpoint on the very last move. A superb route
with Will Calvert
Very glad to clip the belay after dropping the first redpoint on the very last move. A superb route
with Will Calvert
i_a_coops 5 May, 2016 Lead RP
with Mark
with Mark
Hidden 27 Jun, 2015 Lead RP
Hidden 27 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
ChrisDavis 21 Jun, 2015 Lead RP
jonleighton 21 Jun, 2015 Lead RP
thomas108 ??, 2015 -
Tomar 13 Sep, 2014 Lead RP One of the best hard routes around
One of the best hard routes around
Luke Dawson 15 Jun, 2014 Lead RP
with Chas
with Chas
eddieclimb 11 Jun, 2014 Lead RP Great route, went 2nd rp so really psyched. Fantastic top wall, technical face climbing - loved it :-)
with Tom Rogers
Great route, went 2nd rp so really psyched. Fantastic top wall, technical face climbing - loved it :-)
with Tom Rogers
Hidden ??, 2014 Lead RP
Hidden ? Nov, 2013 Lead dnf
Cailean Harker 8 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S Amazing climbing. Felt pretty spicy on the top slab as I was "fairly" pumped up there. Very happy to onsight.
with brice
Amazing climbing. Felt pretty spicy on the top slab as I was "fairly" pumped up there. Very happy to onsight.
with brice
brices 8 Sep, 2013 Lead RP One of the very best routes in cheddar brilliantly involved all the way to the chains
One of the very best routes in cheddar brilliantly involved all the way to the chains
Hidden 15 Jun, 2012 Lead RP
brices 22 May, 2012 Lead dog tried to OS came off then a bit unpsyched will try again
with Tris.w
tried to OS came off then a bit unpsyched will try again
with Tris.w
westyb3 19 May, 2012 Lead RP 2nd go. Great route
with _m.cox_
2nd go. Great route
with _m.cox_
valecoastclimber ??, 2012 Lead O/S First 7c onsight in UK
First 7c onsight in UK
quiffhanger 27 Nov, 2011 Lead RP Finally. Best part of 4-days worth of effort but worth it. Best route I've ever done at the grade - feels very powerful at first but full of hidden rests & sneaky sequences.
Finally. Best part of 4-days worth of effort but worth it. Best route I've ever done at the grade - feels very powerful at first but full of hidden rests & sneaky sequences.
Hidden 8 Oct, 2011 Lead dog
quiffhanger 8 Oct, 2011 Lead dog After a mammoth effort, fell of easy ground 3 moves from the end when a foothold crumbled! Gutted.
After a mammoth effort, fell of easy ground 3 moves from the end when a foothold crumbled! Gutted.
eddy-on-the-rocks 14 May, 2011 Lead RP I'll give myself 7c- for because I fell from the 3rd clip, lowered and then did the route from there. Loverly
with max
I'll give myself 7c- for because I fell from the 3rd clip, lowered and then did the route from there. Loverly
with max
Hidden 13 Jun, 2010 Lead RP
Hidden 13 Jun, 2010 Lead RP
Hidden 12 Jun, 2010 Lead β
James Marshall ? Jun, 2010 Lead RP What a climb ! I can't believe that there could be a better 7c in the country. Physical, then mental battle.
with barry
What a climb ! I can't believe that there could be a better 7c in the country. Physical, then mental battle.
with barry
gazhbo ??, 2010 Lead RP
Kev Little ??, 2010 Lead RP
_m.cox_ ? Jun, 2008 Lead RP Amazing route
Amazing route
58 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 17
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest

Valley of the Blind

Grade: 7c ***
(Cheddar Gorge North)