UKC

Restricted Access

The south side of the gorge is privately owned by Cheddar Caves & Gorge and forms part of the Longleat Estate. It is not Open Access land under the CRoW Act (2000), unlike the National Trust owned land on the north side of the Gorge. Cheddar is unique in the fact that many of the crags are directly above a busy road which forms part of a major tourist attraction in the area. Unlike many crags, where a dropped piece of gear or rock is unlikely to have any impact on a member of the public, in Cheddar it has far greater potential to injure a visitor or damage a car. 

Because of this, for climbing on the south side the year is split into three seasons according to the number of visitors to the gorge.  During the busiest periods, all crags on the south side are closed, during the moderately busy periods only the restored routes (which have been cleared of loose rock as far as possible) on the south side are open, and during quiet periods all routes are open. These seasons are based on school and public holidays so change slightly every year.

Anyone climbing on the south side of Cheddar Gorge must carry civil liability cover of at least £10 million. This comes as standard with BMC or MCofS membership or can be organised separately. BMC/MCofS membership cards or details of your individual policy must be carried as proof of cover whilst climbing on the south side of the Gorge and the climbing warden and CC&G staff carry out frequent checks. Civil liability is also recommended for anyone climbing on the north side of the Gorge, but is not a requirement.

The BMC Cheddar Gorge Access Map has full details of which areas can be accessed during which periods. This should be considered required reading for any climber visiting the Gorge, regardless of which side or area you plan to climb on. A trial started in 2019 allows additional access to some areas so check the map before you visit as new year round access is available on three crags, but climbers need to demonstrate an ability to follow the agreed restrictions to make this a permanent lifting of restrictions.

The latest guide to the Gorge - 'Cheddar Gorge Climbs' (M. Crocker, 2015) – has a definitive list of restored routes on the south side as well as routes on the north side. It is available from The Gorge Outdoors shop in Cheddar village, as well as other climbing and outdoor shops in the area.

The latest guide to the Gorge - 'Cheddar Gorge Climbs' (M. Crocker, 2015) – has a definitive list of restored routes on the south side as well as routes on the north side. It is available from The Gorge Outdoors shop in Cheddar village, as well as other climbing and outdoor shops in the area.

It has been reported that there is some confusion or misunderstanding of the use of the terms "restored" and "unrestored" routes in relation to access.  Restored routes are trad routes that were cleaned and equiped with lower off bolts, and sport routes that were  bolted or rebolted and equipped.  This work was carried out as part of the Cheddar Gorge Climbing project between 2003 - 2005.  All these routes are described in the current guide book  - Cheddar Gorge Climbs by Martin Crocker.  The access agreement  only includes routes found in this guide.  Some restored routes in the guide remain as winter only routes. This includes most of the multi pitch routes in the gorge. Full details are in the guide.  The climbs on the South side listed in previous guide books and not found in the current  book, including the previous CC guides are winter access only - 1st October -- 15th March.

Annual loose rock removal carried out by the landowners has nothing to do with access changes for climbers and has no bearing on on the climbing access agreements.  It is carried out entirely in the interest of safety for visitors to the gorge.

NOTICE 12/05/2012 Sunset Buttress: the ash tree at the top of Space Tourist has ash dieback and is in poor condition. The strop for abseiling from has been removed and the tree  marked with a cross. Do not abseil from it. All other ash trees along the buttress rim also have the disease and should not be abseiled from. There is one galvanised stake in place near the tree, however its provenance is unknown, but probably placed for rope access work. It will not have been tested for many years and in addition it may be difficult to pull the ropes down from it. Until new abseil anchors can be set up, walking off and back down is advised.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 16 March to 30 September

Reason: Public Safety

Due to the proximity of Cheddar's cliffs to the road and tourists below, there are complex access restrictions which vary depending on the time of year and section of cliff on the south side of the Gorge. These restrictions are fully detailed in the BMC's Cheddar Gorge Access Map.

Please ensure you follow the access agreements detailed on the map to ensure that future access is able to continue. It is imperative that climbers self police otherwise access permission may be withdrawn by the landowner Cheddar Caves & Gorge.

Pumpy groove. The hard cimbing is packed into a 10m section.
Climb easily onto a pedestal. Move up left to enter the groove and climb it to good holds in a break. Reach up for a jug and finish more easily via a big flake.

Ticklists

Cheddar Sevens , West Country Climbs , Cheddar Road To 7a Ruins , The road to paradise lost , Brizzle goalz , Bolts to clip in Cheddar , 7As with stars near Bristol , Cheddar 7a+ Challenge

Feedback

User Date Notes
plant_based_tommo 26 Mar, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant \'cheddar style\' climbing. First bolt hanger is missing so bring a stick clip or gadget arms.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant 'cheddar style' climbing. First bolt hanger is missing so bring a stick clip or gadget arms.
Ashley King 23 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Used a different beta around the 3rd clip as my fingers were too fat for the little side pull. So ended up with left hand in the 1st good hold. Was easy to adjust and go on from there though.
Show beta
βeta: Used a different beta around the 3rd clip as my fingers were too fat for the little side pull. So ended up with left hand in the 1st good hold. Was easy to adjust and go on from there though.
Ashley King 21 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: All about making sure your body is facing in the right direction and using little laybacks. One for when your fresh as the climbing is hard but short.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: All about making sure your body is facing in the right direction and using little laybacks. One for when your fresh as the climbing is hard but short.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 61
Votes cast 53
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
(Radio Shock ... Link .. On Radio > SOTN )

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Cheddar Gorge South)

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