Restricted Access
Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:
- No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from above.
- No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale.
- Do not leave in situ krabs or tape on bolt hangers.
- Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance.
- Do not remove large swathes of ivy.
From the usual lower off on Whose Line is it Anyway move diagonally up and left using a thin flake/undercut to join Armistice Day at the final moves over the final roof. Lower off as per that route.
Quite probably done before but adds a few moves and a bit of interest (for old jaded Cornice hacks...) onto the end of the harder-than-it-used-to-be original route.
Quite probably done before but adds a few moves and a bit of interest (for old jaded Cornice hacks...) onto the end of the harder-than-it-used-to-be original route.
Keith Sharples 23/Aug/2021.
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Grade: 7b ***
(Chee Dale Upper)