UKC

Restricted Access

Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:

  • No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from above.
  • No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale.
  • Do not leave in situ krabs or tape on bolt hangers.
  • Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance. 
  • Do not remove large swathes of ivy.

Blackwell Halt
This compact wall has a good set of mid-grade routes. The setting is pleasant and there is plenty of picnic potential at the base. The wall faces south although the lower section is in the shade of the trees. There is little seepage and it is well sheltered from the wind.

Approach - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharply left at the cottages to follow a small path along the edge of the river past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.

Access - The new landowner of Blackwell Halt is working towards being able to give permission for climbers to access the site but is not currently able to do so. If you do decide to visit, be aware you may be asked to leave - please be polite and courteous at all times.

20m.

Rockfax Description
A somewhat 'created' route but with excellent climbing. A hard initial wall leads to a good rest. From here, make a beautiful dynamic move and a frustrating crimpy one to finish. © Rockfax

Ian Dunn 1999.

Ticklists

Peak limestone north graded list - sport , James' Summer Ticklist , The "I live in West Yorkshire and have a rockfax digital subscription" 7's sport bible

Feedback

User Date Notes
robert mirfin 22 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: A hold snapped of on the head wall and it looks like one of the glued ones just over the bulge has deteriorated too , may be slightly harder than before but still good moves .
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A hold snapped of on the head wall and it looks like one of the glued ones just over the bulge has deteriorated too , may be slightly harder than before but still good moves .
Wft 14 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Needs its own belay. Note to self.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Needs its own belay. Note to self.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Chee Dale Upper

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Voting
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 15
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Jug Jockey

Grade: 7c+ ***
(Chee Dale Lower)

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