UKC

Restricted Access

Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:

  • No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from above.
  • No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale.
  • Do not leave in situ krabs or tape on bolt hangers.
  • Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance. 
  • Do not remove large swathes of ivy.

Blackwell Halt
This compact wall has a good set of mid-grade routes. The setting is pleasant and there is plenty of picnic potential at the base. The wall faces south although the lower section is in the shade of the trees. There is little seepage and it is well sheltered from the wind.

Approach - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharply left at the cottages to follow a small path along the edge of the river past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.

Access - The new landowner of Blackwell Halt is working towards being able to give permission for climbers to access the site but is not currently able to do so. If you do decide to visit, be aware you may be asked to leave - please be polite and courteous at all times.

15m.

Rockfax Description
The slim groove on the right-hand side of the wall gives a big route, which was well ahead of its time in 1984. Climb to the break then move right and up Toys for the Boys. Mark a hard pull left to a slim groove. Climb this then exit right into Toys for the Boys at the top. © Rockfax

FA. Dougie Hall 1984.

Ticklists

World Graded List , Peak Rock/15/The Dawn of Sport:A Bolt From the Blue , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Hard Peak Limestone Trad

Feedback

User Date Notes
Peaklime_bagger 1 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Probably 7c or 7c+, and not far off E8. Bouldery. Fixed gear unnecessary (though helpful for working). Take many RPs and a few small to medium wires. Many different sequences possible.
Show beta
βeta: Probably 7c or 7c+, and not far off E8. Bouldery. Fixed gear unnecessary (though helpful for working). Take many RPs and a few small to medium wires. Many different sequences possible.
Ben Bransby 24 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Climbed today and followed the same line as Felix la shat. Seems the most logical line esp with the bolts either side. I knocked out the tied off peg (the placement was actually pretty good, just that the eye was all rusted) and now you can get 2 more wires in where the peg was - a bit fiddly but bomber I think. I didn't clip the tat lower down or the higher peg so completely possible with no fixed gear. I'm 5'5'' and didn't seem reachy, dif beta I guess.
Show beta
βeta: Climbed today and followed the same line as Felix la shat. Seems the most logical line esp with the bolts either side. I knocked out the tied off peg (the placement was actually pretty good, just that the eye was all rusted) and now you can get 2 more wires in where the peg was - a bit fiddly but bomber I think. I didn't clip the tat lower down or the higher peg so completely possible with no fixed gear. I'm 5'5'' and didn't seem reachy, dif beta I guess.
Felix la shat 12 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The line I took today is the line in the rockfax guide. Straight up the wall to the sapling and then straight up to the groove. Once I read the updated description it made a lot of sense as it's the line of least resistance up the wall. I decided to climb it this way as it avoids the bolts and is more direct. However I think the line I took is the line that was briefly bolted. So this confusion seems to have gone back a while. Gear wise the crucial peg is awful, even when tied off but there are three small wires to back it up and a thread slightly lower. It's unfortunately reachy though, about 8a if you're tall.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The line I took today is the line in the rockfax guide. Straight up the wall to the sapling and then straight up to the groove. Once I read the updated description it made a lot of sense as it's the line of least resistance up the wall. I decided to climb it this way as it avoids the bolts and is more direct. However I think the line I took is the line that was briefly bolted. So this confusion seems to have gone back a while. Gear wise the crucial peg is awful, even when tied off but there are three small wires to back it up and a thread slightly lower. It's unfortunately reachy though, about 8a if you're tall.

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Voting
High E8
Mid E8
Low E8
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
Votes cast 7
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 6
Route of Interest
Eye of the Tiger

Grade: E7 6c ***
(Dovedale)

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