UKC

15m.

Rockfax Description
The slim groove on the right-hand side of the wall gives a big route, which was well ahead of its time in 1984. Climb to the break then move right and up Toys for the Boys. Mark a hard pull left to a slim groove. Climb this then exit right into Toys for the Boys at the top. © Rockfax

FA. Dougie Hall 1984.

Ticklists

World Graded List, Peak Rock/15/The Dawn of Sport:A Bolt From the Blue, Definitive *** Peak Lime

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ben Bransby 24 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Climbed today and followed the same line as Felix la shat. Seems the most logical line esp with the bolts either side. I knocked out the tied off peg (the placement was actually pretty good, just that the eye was all rusted) and now you can get 2 more wires in where the peg was - a bit fiddly but bomber I think. I didn't clip the tat lower down or the higher peg so completely possible with no fixed gear. I'm 5'5'' and didn't seem reachy, dif beta I guess.
Show beta
βeta: Climbed today and followed the same line as Felix la shat. Seems the most logical line esp with the bolts either side. I knocked out the tied off peg (the placement was actually pretty good, just that the eye was all rusted) and now you can get 2 more wires in where the peg was - a bit fiddly but bomber I think. I didn't clip the tat lower down or the higher peg so completely possible with no fixed gear. I'm 5'5'' and didn't seem reachy, dif beta I guess.
Felix la shat 12 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The line I took today is the line in the rockfax guide. Straight up the wall to the sapling and then straight up to the groove. Once I read the updated description it made a lot of sense as it's the line of least resistance up the wall. I decided to climb it this way as it avoids the bolts and is more direct. However I think the line I took is the line that was briefly bolted. So this confusion seems to have gone back a while. Gear wise the crucial peg is awful, even when tied off but there are three small wires to back it up and a thread slightly lower. It's unfortunately reachy though, about 8a if you're tall.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The line I took today is the line in the rockfax guide. Straight up the wall to the sapling and then straight up to the groove. Once I read the updated description it made a lot of sense as it's the line of least resistance up the wall. I decided to climb it this way as it avoids the bolts and is more direct. However I think the line I took is the line that was briefly bolted. So this confusion seems to have gone back a while. Gear wise the crucial peg is awful, even when tied off but there are three small wires to back it up and a thread slightly lower. It's unfortunately reachy though, about 8a if you're tall.

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Route of Interest

Janus

Grade: E7 6b ***
(Curbar Edge)
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