UKC

Restricted Access

Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:

  • No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from above.
  • No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale.
  • Do not leave in situ krabs or tape on bolt hangers.
  • Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance. 
  • Do not remove large swathes of ivy.

Blackwell Halt
This compact wall has a good set of mid-grade routes. The setting is pleasant and there is plenty of picnic potential at the base. The wall faces south although the lower section is in the shade of the trees. There is little seepage and it is well sheltered from the wind.

Approach - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharply left at the cottages to follow a small path along the edge of the river past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.

Access - The new landowner of Blackwell Halt is working towards being able to give permission for climbers to access the site but is not currently able to do so. If you do decide to visit, be aware you may be asked to leave - please be polite and courteous at all times.

15m.

Rockfax Description
A popular route with complex moves on the lower wall and a pushy move above the break. The rest out left between the two is naughty but nice. © Rockfax

FA. Gary Gibson 1986.

Ticklists

Peak limestone north graded list - sport , Peak sport , Peak sport for mortals , The "I live in West Yorkshire and have a rockfax digital subscription" 7's sport bible

Feedback

User Date Notes
Alan James - Rockfax 18 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The lower-off is round a dead ash tree. I added a temporary rope to the solid tree behind today and tried to make it take the weight of the belay and make it safe(er). I suspect the tree will collapse this winter. Needs a proper belay long term though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The lower-off is round a dead ash tree. I added a temporary rope to the solid tree behind today and tried to make it take the weight of the belay and make it safe(er). I suspect the tree will collapse this winter. Needs a proper belay long term though.
Carl 14 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Top juggy section has some very questionably attached pieces of rock, make sure your belayer is paying attention and wearing a helmet. Not sure it adds much to the route really, may be better with a lower-off below...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Top juggy section has some very questionably attached pieces of rock, make sure your belayer is paying attention and wearing a helmet. Not sure it adds much to the route really, may be better with a lower-off below...
TomKirby96 4 Dec, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: good route, tricky crux but no hands rest higher up is amazing
Show beta
βeta: good route, tricky crux but no hands rest higher up is amazing

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Chee Dale Upper

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 105
Votes cast 88
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Darl - Pitch 1

Grade: 7a ***
(Chee Dale Upper)

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