UKC

Restricted Access

Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:

  • No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from above.
  • No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale.
  • Do not leave in situ krabs or tape on bolt hangers.
  • Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance. 
  • Do not remove large swathes of ivy.

Blackwell Halt
This compact wall has a good set of mid-grade routes. The setting is pleasant and there is plenty of picnic potential at the base. The wall faces south although the lower section is in the shade of the trees. There is little seepage and it is well sheltered from the wind.

Approach - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharply left at the cottages to follow a small path along the edge of the river past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.

Access - The new landowner of Blackwell Halt is working towards being able to give permission for climbers to access the site but is not currently able to do so. If you do decide to visit, be aware you may be asked to leave - please be polite and courteous at all times.

40m.

Rockfax Description
A major route tackling the roof at its widest point gives good moves separated by decent rests and the odd bit of dodgy rock. The best positioned sport route in the Peak! It is usually done in one huge (40m) pitch but then lowered-off in stages. © Rockfax

FFA. Kristian Clemmow (2004). FA. (1pt aid) A.Pollitt 1987.

Ticklists

Classic Hard Peak Limestone , Peak Rock/15/The Dawn of Sport:A Bolt From the Blue , Peak limestone north graded list - sport , UK 8a and up , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Lime Time , Steep UK Sport Routes , Pyramid to 8a+ , Sportland

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User Date Notes
Kris suriyo 19 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JARUPuiRlaw
Show beta
βeta: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JARUPuiRlaw
Boy 15 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Totally free with a slightly different line at 8a ***, Kristian Clemmow last year.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Totally free with a slightly different line at 8a ***, Kristian Clemmow last year.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Chee Dale Upper

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Voting
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Lead
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Crucifixion

Grade: 8a ***
(Raven Tor (Miller's Dale))

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