UKC

Restricted Access

Cheedale is a SSSI and SAC with a high level of legal protection under European law. Access for climbing is concessionary and can only be maintained if climber's continue to adhere to a number of conditions agreed with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (who own the Southern bank of the river). These include:

  • No access along the top of the dale beyond a corner formed by the wall and obvious new fence bounding the 3rd major gully east of Plum Buttress. Therefore, no access to Runyans Corner and Moving, Long, or Two-Tier Buttresses from above.
  • No further bolted development on the small, vegetated, and obscure crags, which rim the dale.
  • Do not leave in situ krabs or tape on bolt hangers.
  • Parts of Nettle Buttress, Chee Tor East, and Dogs Dinner area are bolt free areas of outstanding appearance. 
  • Do not remove large swathes of ivy.

Blackwell Halt
This compact wall has a good set of mid-grade routes. The setting is pleasant and there is plenty of picnic potential at the base. The wall faces south although the lower section is in the shade of the trees. There is little seepage and it is well sheltered from the wind.

Approach - From the Monsal Trail on the Chee Dale Upper Approach, head down towards the cafe/cycle hire. Cross the bridge and turn sharply left at the cottages to follow a small path along the edge of the river past a pump house. This leads to a tunnel under the train tracks. On leaving the tunnel, cross the fence on the left and go up some hidden stone steps. From here a path leads up into the grassy field below the quarry.

Access - The new landowner of Blackwell Halt is working towards being able to give permission for climbers to access the site but is not currently able to do so. If you do decide to visit, be aware you may be asked to leave - please be polite and courteous at all times.

Rockfax Description
Start up the corner to a good hold on the right wall. Climb this and the blunt arete above, through the small roof, then up and left to the Hunger Strike belay. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start up the corner (Split Infinitive) to gain a good hold on the right wall. Climb this and the blunt arete above, through the small roof, then up and left to the Hunger Strike belay.

Mark Rankine 29/Jul/2021.

Feedback

User Date Notes
mark20 7 Jun Show βeta
βeta: A bolted version of Split Infinitive which soloed up the corner, taking in some new rock on the rib and finish. Was tempted to do this at E6 with gear in the break originally but bolted at 7b+. (No lost holds - it is still in the state as when I first did it)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A bolted version of Split Infinitive which soloed up the corner, taking in some new rock on the rib and finish. Was tempted to do this at E6 with gear in the break originally but bolted at 7b+. (No lost holds - it is still in the state as when I first did it)
kristian 10 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: XXL draw on the bolt above the crux is desirable.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: XXL draw on the bolt above the crux is desirable.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Chee Dale Upper

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Voting
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Lead
Redpoint
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Boob Tube

Grade: 7c ***
(Jug Holes)

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