UKC

Climbs 332
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 3m a.s.l
Faces E

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Lucy Climbing at Cheyne Wears Portland © emmaharrington

Crag features

Cheyne Cliff is the highest on the east coast of Portland and contains a number of the Isle's finest steep wall pitches. The routes mostly fall into the mid to upper 7th grade and are both long and fingery with a good proportion of the climbing being on flowstone faces and orange coral sheets. The harder routes have been used for training purposes and many variations have been done over time. The Nook is a very different proposition having some short and well sheltered lines in the lower grades.

Approach notes

The two main parking areas for this crag lie on the main road between Easton and Southwell. The first is the main Cheyne Weares car park which is clearly marked. The second limited spot (2-3 cars) is in a short track, on the seaward side of the road, 300m south of Cheyne Weares car park. From the limited parking spot head toward the Neddyfields Main Cliff on the coast path, for The Nook double back left after 60m along a low quarried terrace to arrive at the crag. For Cheyne Cliff after 90m double back down a steep slope which leads to the crag base at sea level. All the sectors can be reached from here.

Restricted Access

The Corailized and Road Rage wall have fingery and steep test piece routes best avoided in the heat of the sun and can turn greasy when afternoon shade come on faces. But there is some more humble offering in The Nook and the newly developed area below. Until 2014 there were some moderate graded routes on the  blocky wall left of Corailized but a significant rockfall left the routes scattered across the beach below ( note the staples in blocks as you walk past) as almost blocking of the curious tunnel that the spring flows from.

Though not restricted it is also worth avoiding to climbing or hanging around in the lefthand wall in Dungecroft quarry and encourage the puplic to avoid too, as this is very close to the Peregrines nesting spot.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to all routes from high arête left of Coralized wall to and including Dutch Courage. 

You very visible from bird watchers so during restriction access and climb on Rage wall with as little fuss as possible. Can be accessed by abseil from Dunecroft Quarry but walking in and out along boulder beach quietly is also acceptable.  

Though not restricted it is also worth avoiding the climbing or hanging around in the lefthand wall area in Dungecroft quarry and encourage the puplic to avoid too, as this is very close to the Peregrines nesting spot.

Added a second abseil staple in April above Detonator for Dungecroft Quarry.
Wayne.Gaudin - 19/Jun/21
There is a tiny bird nesting next to the third bolt of Ecosystem. Maybe to let alone at the moment (April 2019)
FerClimbs - 22/Apr/19
Further landslip has left the 3 most northerly climbs inaccessible. Approach rope is buried, remaining slope looks unstable. Routes affected are Threatening Speedos, Pouch of Douglas, and Bariatric
ssutton - 29/Aug/17
FOR ANYONE THINKING OF HEADING TO CHEYNE WEARES AREA BE AWARE Large amounts of rock have fallen from Cheyne cliff. Almost all of the Coralized area at Cheyne cliff collapsed today. coast guard and bmc have been notified. DO NOT CLIMB HERE. the remaining cliff looks incredibly unstable in a lot of areas, please do not climb here until it has been inspected etc etc it is very very dangerous. I believe local authorities will be closing the area underneath the cliff for safety reasons. spread the word
David Clover - 24/Aug/14
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