Lucy Climbing at Cheyne Wears Portland © emmaharrington
Cheyne Cliff is the highest on the east coast of Portland and contains a number of the Isle's finest steep wall pitches. The routes mostly fall into the mid to upper 7th grade and are both long and fingery with a good proportion of the climbing being on flowstone faces and orange coral sheets. The harder routes have been used for training purposes and many variations have been done over time. The Nook is a very different proposition having some short and well sheltered lines in the lower grades.
The two main parking areas for this crag lie on the main road between Easton and Southwell. The first is the main Cheyne Weares car park which is clearly marked. The second limited spot (2-3 cars) is in a short track, on the seaward side of the road, 300m south of Cheyne Weares car park. From the limited parking spot head toward the Neddyfields Main Cliff on the coast path, for The Nook double back left after 60m along a low quarried terrace to arrive at the crag. For Cheyne Cliff after 90m double back down a steep slope which leads to the crag base at sea level. All the sectors can be reached from here.
A significant rockfall in 2014 took out a number of routes in the Coralized Area of the crag - there is a good chance of further instability and rockfall so climbers are advised to be very careful when walking underneath this area of the crag and moving quickly through it is advisable.
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction applies to all routes from The Nook to Van Life inclusive. Routes right (looking in) of Van Life are unaffected, but only accessible via abseil from Dungecroft Quarry to prevent disturbance to the birds via the normal approach.Updated by UKC: 2nd June
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