UKC

225m, 8 pitches. Where the climbers track reaches the crag head up and left, along a skinny path for 100m, double back and up when you see a large left facing corner and a cleanish bolted slab below. P1 is a sport 17 for 15meters. P2 18 30m starts at the ring bolts at the bottom of the left facing corner, a mixture of bolts then trad takes you over some suspect rock until you step across the corner onto the slab above to double ring anchor above a tree. P3 is 18 trad, follow diagonally right trending wide crack to a small over hang, pass this and follow the slab upwards next to another bigger, left facing corner, make tricky moves out right under the overhang on average gear to gain the next slab. Climb the slab to a ledge then climb a large crack directly to a double ring anchor. P4 20, 40m Easy trad climbing up the cracks above the ledge to a small overhang, surmount this then follow the bolts diagonally up and right on small positive edges to gain the large tree covered ledge. Walk along the ledge for 30m until you get to an overhanging arete. P5, Sport 17, 21m climb burly awkward moves up the arete, then trend right to the double ring anchor on a small ledge on the next arete across and enjoy the view (and exposure!) P6, Sport & Trad 18, 34m, step around the arete past 3 bolts and then follow a weakness on oodles of gear to a tree belay. P7, sport 16 cruise up and right over the slab too tree belay. Scramble up the bank for 25m, when you get to the wall traverse right for 10m until you see a large jagged crack. P8 trad 20 A superb, buggy crack on sublime rock that eventually leads to a slab. A pumpy finish makes a satisfying finish to this great adventure!

Andy McFarlane, Steve Carr 1999.

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High 6a
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