Approach notes

Take a taxi or collectivo from Huaraz to the national park entrance. This is about 3km past the Laguna Churup trailhead. Donkeys can be pre-arranged to meet you at the park entrance. As of 2023, pedestrians can climb freely over the wall but a key is required to open the gate for donkeys, at a fee of 20 USD or equivalent.

Follow the spectacular and quiet valley for 9km to the official campground, then take the left branch of the valley. Highest suitable base camp is a small flat clearing at approx 4300m, -9.4245971, -77.3503600. Beware of hungry marauding cows and store your food carefully.

Climb the moraine ridge above the camp to views over the lake, then follow vague paths and occasional cairns traversing just beneath a small forest and then just beneath a small crag. Scramble up scree then grass on the far side of the crag, passing around the large SE spur of Pucaranra to reach glacially polished slabs up to a few small lakes just beneath the glacier (possible camp, 4800m, -9.4095053, -77.3380510). Scramble up either the scree gully or the slabs to the left of the glacier, then traverse scree until forced onto the glacier. Camps can be made on the glacier beneath the SW face at about 5150m, and also on the W col at about 5500m after climbing 45-50° snow.