A classic Pixie's Hole eliminate.
Sit start in the same place as Farewell…, with right hand on the very polished blob and left below on crack/sidepull. Move left to square pinchy crimp, big cross through to the two good crimps in the middle of the face then make an awkward move with your right hand up to the higher square crimp just right of the arete. Bring left to good pinch on the arete and finish as for Big Bird Arête. If this isn't clear see topo photo. As this is an eliminate the rest of the arete below the high pinch is not used.
Sit start in the same place as Farewell…, with right hand on the very polished blob and left below on crack/sidepull. Move left to square pinchy crimp, big cross through to the two good crimps in the middle of the face then make an awkward move with your right hand up to the higher square crimp just right of the arete. Bring left to good pinch on the arete and finish as for Big Bird Arête. If this isn't clear see topo photo. As this is an eliminate the rest of the arete below the high pinch is not used.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| HeelToeCam | 5 Feb |
Show βeta
βeta: This thing stays dry no matter what! good to play around here if you're desperate to climb outdoors but the connies say otherwise. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: This thing stays dry no matter what! good to play around here if you're desperate to climb outdoors but the connies say otherwise. |
||||
| Dale Turrell | 17 Feb, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: I found an old and poor quality video demonstrating (most of) the problem here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nFRupRhDvNU | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: I found an old and poor quality video demonstrating (most of) the problem here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nFRupRhDvNU |
||||
Logged Ascents
9 users have logged this
Guidebooks for Chudleigh Rocks - South Face
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Route of Interest
Road To Nowhere
Grade: f6C ***
(Bovey Woods - Stonelands)