UKC

Climbs 71
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 24m a.s.l
Faces N

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The face of a champion! © tomrainbow

Crag features

Until 2014, the Churston Quarries were, for most, a long forgotten backwater of Devonian climbing. The first wave of new routeing subsided in the early '90s and the combination of a northerly aspect, copious amounts of ivy and rotting in-situ protection helped seal their fate. But lurking beneath a thick clothing of ivy, high in the previously dismissed middle quarry, lay a perfect sheet of clean white limestone - a crock of gold awaiting a rainbow. Once adorned with good quality resin bolts, the potential of Churston as a viable alternative to the overpopulated sport climbing crags of Anstey's Cove and Torbryan Quarry was revealed.

Approach notes

Approach Brixham on the A3022 and keep left at the white toll house traffic lights. Turn left soon after at a brown sign to Fishcombe Cove. Follow the road through the village until a further brown sign and left turn leads immediately to a good roadside car parking area.

From the far side of Churston Cove, follow the coast path up steps into woodland. 400m from the signpost at the top of the steps is a tree with a distinctive notch hole at 3m. Break right into the woodland on a minor path 15m before the tree and Sugar Mountain quickly comes into view on the right. All the other quarries are easily accessed by paths leading out from the floor of Sugar Mountain Quarry.

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Schedule 1 birds are nesting on Sugar Mountain sector, very close to the approach/descent for all sectors of the crag. Sugar Mountain sector is restricted, and unfortunately other sectors will also need to be restricted unless alternative access via direct abseil/similar can be arranged as use of the normal approach will cause disturbance.
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