Climbs 71
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 24m a.s.l
Faces N
The face of a champion! © tomrainbow
Crag features
Until 2014, the Churston Quarries were, for most, a long forgotten backwater of Devonian climbing. The first wave of new routeing subsided in the early '90s and the combination of a northerly aspect, copious amounts of ivy and rotting in-situ protection helped seal their fate. But lurking beneath a thick clothing of ivy, high in the previously dismissed middle quarry, lay a perfect sheet of clean white limestone - a crock of gold awaiting a rainbow. Once adorned with good quality resin bolts, the potential of Churston as a viable alternative to the overpopulated sport climbing crags of Anstey's Cove and Torbryan Quarry was revealed.
Approach notes
Approach Brixham on the A3022 and keep left at the white toll house traffic lights. Turn left soon after at a brown sign to Fishcombe Cove. Follow the road through the village until a further brown sign and left turn leads immediately to a good roadside car parking area.
From the far side of Churston Cove, follow the coast path up steps into woodland. 400m from the signpost at the top of the steps is a tree with a distinctive notch hole at 3m. Break right into the woodland on a minor path 15m before the tree and Sugar Mountain quickly comes into view on the right. All the other quarries are easily accessed by paths leading out from the floor of Sugar Mountain Quarry.
Access Advice
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Schedule 1 birds are nesting on Sugar Mountain sector, very close to the approach/descent for all sectors of the crag. Sugar Mountain sector is restricted, and unfortunately other sectors will also need to be restricted unless alternative access via direct abseil/similar can be arranged as use of the normal approach will cause disturbance.Rockfax Digital
Available on Rockfax Digital
Rockfax Digital brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.
Guidebooks
South Devon & Dartmoor New Routes Supplement (2007)
Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer tomrainbow