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Climbs 71
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 24m a.s.l
Faces N

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The face of a champion! © tomrainbow

Crag features

Until 2014, the Churston Quarries were, for most, a long forgotten backwater of Devonian climbing. The first wave of new routeing subsided in the early '90s and the combination of a northerly aspect, copious amounts of ivy and rotting in-situ protection helped seal their fate. But lurking beneath a thick clothing of ivy, high in the previously dismissed middle quarry, lay a perfect sheet of clean white limestone - a crock of gold awaiting a rainbow. Once adorned with good quality resin bolts, the potential of Churston as a viable alternative to the overpopulated sport climbing crags of Anstey's Cove and Torbryan Quarry was revealed.

Approach notes

Approach Brixham on the A3022 and keep left at the white toll house traffic lights. Turn left soon after at a brown sign to Fishcombe Cove. Follow the road through the village until a further brown sign and left turn leads immediately to a good roadside car parking area.

From the far side of Churston Cove, follow the coast path up steps into woodland. 400m from the signpost at the top of the steps is a tree with a distinctive notch hole at 3m. Break right into the woodland on a minor path 15m before the tree and Sugar Mountain quickly comes into view on the right. All the other quarries are easily accessed by paths leading out from the floor of Sugar Mountain Quarry.

Access Advice

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Schedule 1 birds are nesting on Sugar Mountain sector, very close to the approach/descent for all sectors of the crag. Sugar Mountain sector is restricted, and unfortunately other sectors will also need to be restricted unless alternative access via direct abseil/similar can be arranged as use of the normal approach will cause disturbance.
Much better and more interesting climbing than it looks.
ferdia - 18/Jan/15
Project now completed - Stan Coliform (probably the best route at Sugar Mountain). Just one more line left (and then the 73 link ups!). Unfortunately the side wall is now seeping, main face dry as a bone after heavy rain yesterday.
tomrainbow - 08/Oct/14
Cheers Milkman (whoever you are). There's still an unclimbed project in the middle of the side wall. It has got tape on the first bolt. Please leave this for the time being (I hope to complete this on Saturday).
tomrainbow - 02/Oct/14
For the new sport routes which Tom and team have done a fab job of cleaning and bolting. Thanks for the effort. 400 strides from the signpost at the top of the steps when you come up from the beach. There is a tree in front of you with obvious knot at 10ft. Prior to this tree by 10/15m there is a slight path follow this and it leads to the left side of the crag. Get down there and get on them, cheers Tom
Milkman - 02/Oct/14
Please do not access the first quarry (Bloodhound) as there are nesting birds which are easily disturbed March - August. Thanks
sebloram - 03/May/11
Is there any access problems here or is climbing allowed here all year round? Thanks, Ellis (:
Ellis Butler-Barker - 28/Feb/11
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Climbs at this crag

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