UKC

40m. Start from the usual slopey ledge near the sea, or from a hanging belay 4m up (good cams) if the ledge is too exposed to waves, between Blue Planet and Mercury. Steady climbing leads to small ledges and a thin vertical crack (RPs/brass offsets). Climb up leftwards to the right end of the main overlap and arrange gear in the break. Move right a little and make bouldery moves up on side pulls and undercuts. Place useful gear in the laser-cut vertical crack, and continue with commitment (crux) up and then left to reach another break and some relief. After getting stood in the break, the final slab tests your determination before reaching some lovely ledges. Follow your nose, pretty much straight up the remaining ground, with occasional sections that will only momentarily slow you down.

Dave Rudkin, Donald King 09/Sep/2024.

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Route of Interest
War and Peace

Grade: E6 6a ***
(Craig Doris)

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