UKC

Climbs 2
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 2742m a.s.l
Faces all

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Ulrich Prader high up on Lacedelli (VIII-) on Punte (Zimes) di Fanes © Yvonne Koch

Crag features

Opened in 1952, the Lacedelli route to Cima Scotoni was and still is a hard Dolomite test piece. Solid compact rock, exposed delicate traverses and an unforgettable squeeze to reach the first great ledge characterise the route. The crux pitch comes early on and was originally aided and, even by modern standards, it is a challenge to climb free. Despite the numerous pegs, the route finding is not always obvious and particular care needs to be taken on the traverses. The quality of the rock and the climbing is consistently high between the first and second great ledges, but then unfortunately deteriorates rapidly and the final three pitches to the summit are loose and uninviting. It is therefore recommended to give the summit a miss and begin the descent from the second great ledge, making the most of the extra time to enjoy a well-deserved beer back at the rifugio.

Approach notes

Cima Scotoni can be approached from either Rifugio Capanna Alpina or the Lagazuoi cable car with a similar walk-in time for both.

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Climbs at this crag

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