Rockfax Description
100m. The last guide stated: “A tenuous line running up the blank wall to nearly reach the left-hand pincer presents Arran's ‘last great problem' and a major challenge for the 21st century.” Six months into the new millennium the ‘last great problem' was solved, with the unknowing second ascent following on a week later.
1) 6b, 30m. Climb the open groove right of the 1st pitch of Abraxas, over a roof to an obvious ledge.
2) 6c, 40m. The awesome main pitch. From the belay climb directly up the stunning leftward trending groove line to a poor in-situ thread runner. Make difficult moves diagonally leftwards to gain the left-hand pincer. Follow this in a spectacular position to a belay on the Tidemark ramp.
3) 6b, 30m. Climb the obvious scoop above the belay, with a hard move at roughly 5m, to a spike runner. Ascend the slab above and finish up easier ground and the top of Ledge 4. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Pitch grades: 6b, 6c, 6b.
On-sighted by James McHaffie and Ryan Pasquill in May 2016.
John Dunne 2001.
The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland , Hardest Scottish Trad , 100 Worthwhile E7's , Ultimate Scottish Rock , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist
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