UKC Logbook - 'Piz da Cir V/Tcheirspitze V (VF)'

Rockfax Description
A short but interesting via ferrata that is ideal for those looking for a half day out or to try a via ferrata for the first time. Despite being relatively short in via ferrata terms, because it departs from the top of the Gardena Pass it still reaches an impressive height of 2500m. This gives you spectacular views into the Val de Chedul, across to the Sella and of the impressive nearby Sassolungo group. The ease of access contributes to the route's popularity and it can get quite busy in peak season. The summit is very small and it is often worth taking a long sling if the cable is particularly crowded. The rock quality is excellent and provides interesting climbing at a consistent level. The route can be combined with the nearby Gran Cir if you want a longer day (though from a climber's perspective Piz da Cir is far superior).
Approach - The car park is situated right at the top of the Gardena Pass, fairly equidistant between Corvara and Selva. When approaching from Corvara, park on the right (overflow car park on the left) just past Hotel Cir. In peak season the parking can get very busy and it may be necessary to park lower down the pass and walk up. There is a fee for parking.
From the car park the easiest line of ascent follows the large access track leading out from behind Hotel Cir. The access track leads all the way up to the top of the Dantercepies gondola which comes up out of Selva. It is also possible to follow any number of smaller and more direct paths which lead underneath the chairlift to the Dantercepies gondola station. The gondola runs during peak season (check dates at the tourist office) and can provide an easy means of access (albeit not a cheap one) if you're staying in Selva. Most parties gear up for the via ferrata below the station, over a coffee at the cafe if you so wish! From here a grassy rib leads up behind the large radio mast towards the rock face. Follow the eroded path following red paint on the rocks, eventually entering into a loose looking gully. Ascend the gully to its conclusion where a brief scramble up right leads to a ladder and the start of the via ferrata.
VF - Climb the ladder and follow the wire for some 80m with pleasant climbing on good rock. The wire ends at a small plateau below the summit with excellent views. Continue up easily to reach the final 10m section of wire above a small saddle directly below the small summit. Follow this to the top, watching out for people descending the wire.
Descent - Down climb the last brief section of wire to return to the saddle. From here another section of easy wire leads left down to a saddle and the large gully below. Follow the loose gully back down to the base of the route, taking care not to dislodge any rocks onto parties below. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Very popular as an introductory VF. 100m of VF leadind directly to summit at 2520m. Approach takes about 30 mins, the descent not much longer

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User	Date		Notes
Matt Alexander	22 Jun, 2023	Show βeta βeta: This VF seems to have been lengthened since the Rockfax description, maybe doubling the VF length (moves are about the same difficulty). After walking up the grassy ridge you will see a wire to your right (facing the cliff) after a few red spots, rather than going into the loose gully. No technical moves needed before clipping on.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: This VF seems to have been lengthened since the Rockfax description, maybe doubling the VF length (moves are about the same difficulty). After walking up the grassy ridge you will see a wire to your right (facing the cliff) after a few red spots, rather than going into the loose gully. No technical moves needed before clipping on.
Stopsy	26 Jun, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Few differences compared to the RF description. On approach take the grassy rib and continue straight up the gully above to the start of the wire. Rockfax description of heading left seems misleading here. Wire continues from summit descending the other side to a col from which a short walk brings you to another section of wire leading down a loose gully. Either contour right (facing downhill) back to the grassy rib, or descend the scree fan on switchback path back toward the lift station.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Few differences compared to the RF description. On approach take the grassy rib and continue straight up the gully above to the start of the wire. Rockfax description of heading left seems misleading here. Wire continues from summit descending the other side to a col from which a short walk brings you to another section of wire leading down a loose gully. Either contour right (facing downhill) back to the grassy rib, or descend the scree fan on switchback path back toward the lift station.