UKC

Climbs 69
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 11m a.s.l
Faces E

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Rowie B leading The Hairline (S), Clashrodney, south Aberdeen seacliffs © Stuart S

Crag features

Pleasant sunny walls and near to Aberdeen make this a great place to climb.
Good variety of single pitch routes, mostly non-tidal.

Recommended routes: Birthday Treat (E1 5a), Sunlover's Traverse (E1 5b), Stiletto (HS), Gorgon (VS 5a), Blind Faith (E3 5c). 

Tidal butresses: Causeway Climbs & Pink Slab.

Approach notes

The old parking at the railway gates has long been an issue and other parking is very limited. Crossing the railway is apparently illegal. The owners of North Mains of Findon Farm (south of the old approach and east of the railway) are happy that climbers park responsibly on the hard standing in the SE corner of their yard. Take care to ensure no access is blocked and there is no need to disturb the residents. Leave the yard by a gate in the NE corner of the yard then head NE down into a field which is crossed NE to a gate which allows access to the old route onto the moor. Cross the burn and continue NE until you see the rocky coast. There is a metal ladder for easy access. To your left(north)will be the Pink Slab and to your right(south) the Waterfall Climbs. 

 

No Access Issues

No issues. 

Walk in available without the need for abseil.

The guidebook approach mentions an iron spike in some bare rock. There's now a ladder attached to the iron spike, so it's hard to miss.
planetmarshall - 30/Jun/13
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