The hanging arete on the right of the corner just to the right of Fingerin' the Dyke (page 276 of the current guide). Short abseil down the corner to ledge above (calm) high tide. Belay on the ab rope. Short route but good rock, excellent moves and position. 50ft Climb to the overlap and pull through on to the arete, from the rounded break use a small but perfect crimp to attain the next sloping break. Finish easily. Good micro wires protect (RP2s and HB3s). F -

John Fletcher and James Strongman 21/Jul/2002.


Atlantic Coast New Routes


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Darkinbad the Brightdayler

Grade: E5 6a ***
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