60m, 2 pitches.
A totally absorbing mixed route of the highest quality, giving technical and tenuous climbing in a great position on turf, rock and water ice. The wall to the right of Cleft Gully has a hanging ice feature high up to aim for. Start a few metres right of the base of Cleft Gully.
1. 35m 9 Climb the right-hand side of the wall up turfy ledges and pull over onto a slabby diagonal ramp. Steinpull up rightwards onto a large turf blob (good thread) from where you can ponder the blank-looking crux across the hanging face on the left. Climb this and step around the blunt arete then pull through the bulge to gain the hanging ice feature. Continue up leftwards to a ledge.
2. 25m 5/6/7 Climb whichever choice of exit pitches best suits your mood.
1. 35m 9 Climb the right-hand side of the wall up turfy ledges and pull over onto a slabby diagonal ramp. Steinpull up rightwards onto a large turf blob (good thread) from where you can ponder the blank-looking crux across the hanging face on the left. Climb this and step around the blunt arete then pull through the bulge to gain the hanging ice feature. Continue up leftwards to a ledge.
2. 25m 5/6/7 Climb whichever choice of exit pitches best suits your mood.
Dave Almond, Pete Harrison 12/Feb/2018.
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Route of Interest
The Charlatan
Grade: IX 9 ***
(Clogwyn Du Ymhen Y Glyder)