UKC

Rockfax Description
The other major face climbing showpiece of this wall has desperate but refined climbing. Start just to the left of the corner of Sacred Idol. Climb the wall to a tiny peg below the steep hanging groove. Gain the groove from the right and layback up it with much difficulty until you are high enough to make a terrifying step down and right onto a foothold near the lip of the overhang. Another committing high step/rockover leads to easier climbing up a flake - gear - continue direct to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Ultimate E5 ticklist , Definitive *** Llanberis

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User Date Notes
jon 27 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The RURP was a remnant of an (very) old aid traverse of the crag. I remember from the first ascent (June 86), it had long since lost its wire even then. I threaded it with some thin blue cord which according to Andy needs replacing! The rurp probably has zero holding power at all, its main value is that when clipped with a single krab, it prevents an outward pull on the small wires and therefore stops them from being pulled out as you climb above them.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The RURP was a remnant of an (very) old aid traverse of the crag. I remember from the first ascent (June 86), it had long since lost its wire even then. I threaded it with some thin blue cord which according to Andy needs replacing! The rurp probably has zero holding power at all, its main value is that when clipped with a single krab, it prevents an outward pull on the small wires and therefore stops them from being pulled out as you climb above them.
Andy Moles 14 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The RURP has lost its wire. You would need a very thin piece of tat to thread the hole. There is other small gear available at this point. The described step back down to the foothold above the lip of the roof is not obligatory.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The RURP has lost its wire. You would need a very thin piece of tat to thread the hole. There is other small gear available at this point. The described step back down to the foothold above the lip of the roof is not obligatory.

Logged Ascents

30 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Clogwyn Gafr (aka Craig Fach)

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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 14
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 14
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Poetry Pink

Grade: E5 6b ***
(Rainbow Slab Area)

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