UKC

90m, 4 pitches. A fine mixed route with good gear where required. Start a few metres left of a ramp of loose blocks, below a steep groove & a couple of overlaps.
P1 5 40m Climb into & up the steep groove. Above it, cracks & flakes lead rightwards to easier angled turfy ground. Head up to a good belay at the base of the obvious overhanging chimney.
P2 5 20m Move rightwards & up on small spikes to a ledge with an in situ rap point. Above are a groove on the left & a shallow chimney on the right. Climb through the chimney to reach a spike belay at its top, on the left.
P2a (The Left Nostril Variation) 6 20m Head for the left-hand groove, rather than the chimney. Easy to get into: harder to exit!
P3 5 15m Move back right over boulders & spikes, to a ledge. Then up & right to reach a steep headwall. Move left to belay on boulders.
P4 4 15m Climb the slab above until the arĂȘte is reached.

Gaz Davies, Will Oates 19/Mar/2013.

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Route of Interest
Snowdrop

Grade: IV ***
(Clogwyn y Garnedd)

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