A steep and sometimes technical route that weaves its way up the cliff via lines of weakness and chimneys. The route starts halfway between The Gambit Climb and Fallen Block Crack at a steep groove 3m right of some vague chimney lines.1) 4a, 15m. Climb the groove past its undercut base and then move left round a corner. Head up 10m to gain some large perched blocks and continue up to a stance 5m above.2) 12m. Move up and wander left to a grass-filled corner system. Follow this, passing three large steps, to reach a belay in the next corner system above. 3) 4b, 15m. Climb the corner, stepping left onto a ledge at 5m. Climb the technical wall above, then traverse right to belay by a small slab.4) 4c, 15m. Gain a small, crimpy hold on the left, which unlocks the secret of the slab, allowing access to its far edge. Follow a chimney, then a crack to belay at a perched block.5) 20m. Move left and follow a cracked corner to gain the right-hand end of a ledge. Move left a few metres to gain a short wall then a slab, which leads to a ledge below a corner.6) 4b, 40m. Climb the left-hand of the two corner-cracks to a ledge at 5m. Follow the corner on the right via steep jamming. Continue up easy ground above. © Rockfax
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Grade: VS 5a ***
(Craig y Castell (Tremadog))
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