UKC

Rockfax Description
A good route that requires large hexes or cams. Start just right of Monolith Crack.
1) 4b, 15m. Ascend the square corner to a sloping ledge. Move along this to its right-hand end and a groove with a wide crack. Without large gear a bold move is required to gain the slab above. Head up the slab to belay below twin cracks.
2) 4a, 15m. The right-hand crack provides another challenge until easier ground leads to a ledge. Escape left or tackle the short slab to the top. © Rockfax

S.W.Herford And Party 1912.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , Ultimate HS ticklist , Siegfried Herford’s First Ascents

Feedback

User Date Notes
Noah Rachel 17 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Large grey and large purple cam are critical in certain sections. I felt like it was closer to VS climbing for most of the actual climbing. There is a section towards the end which is just a large slab through some grass that goes on for a fair few meters. VS 4c?
Show beta
βeta: Large grey and large purple cam are critical in certain sections. I felt like it was closer to VS climbing for most of the actual climbing. There is a section towards the end which is just a large slab through some grass that goes on for a fair few meters. VS 4c?
Kirill 22 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: What a sandbag! P1 is at least 4c, P2 is about 5a (possibly 5b)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: What a sandbag! P1 is at least 4c, P2 is about 5a (possibly 5b)
Matt Alexander 12 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Previous comments about big gear meaning giant gear are correct (Dragon 5 too small on p1). P2 if you climb onto the tall block (not sure if that is the twin cracks from the topo) it is nowhere close to 4a (much harder).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Previous comments about big gear meaning giant gear are correct (Dragon 5 too small on p1). P2 if you climb onto the tall block (not sure if that is the twin cracks from the topo) it is nowhere close to 4a (much harder).

Logged Ascents

450 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Clogwyn y Tarw (The Gribin Facet)

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 80 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 40
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 34
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Tennis Shoe

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Idwal Slabs (aka Cwm Idwal))

Loading Notifications...