Rockfax Description
A combination of P1 of Oxo and the excellent top pitch of a route Bovine, which is now incorporated in other routes.
1) 4b, 30m. As for Oxo P1. Climb up a few metres and traverse right to a small ledge. Continue rightwards, passing a pinnacle, to reach a small flat wall. Pass this and gain the ledge on the right - good belay.
2) 4c, 28m. This is what you came for. Steep, exposed climbing on holds the size of buckets. Climb the groove above the ledge for 2m, make a hard move right to huge holds and blast off directly up the wall. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Given 3* in the latest guide, well worth it.
Ticklists
The 100 Best UK VS routes? , North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Welsh Roadtrip , BSR multipitch routes , 3 Star - North Wales upto HVS , N Wales VS longlist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Cake | 7 Aug |
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βeta: As per previous comment. Don't abseil to the right of the tree, where we thought it should go. It wasn't fun. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: As per previous comment. Don't abseil to the right of the tree, where we thought it should go. It wasn't fun. |
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| LucaC | 12 Apr |
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βeta: Old tat cleaned and new abseil tat added 2025-04-12 on the tree way back from the edge. The block with static rope has a very shallow lip and the tree is much more confidence inspiring. No problem pulling if you ab back down the route even though it's far from the edge. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Old tat cleaned and new abseil tat added 2025-04-12 on the tree way back from the edge. The block with static rope has a very shallow lip and the tree is much more confidence inspiring. No problem pulling if you ab back down the route even though it's far from the edge. |
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| aranscope | 21 Aug, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: Bless whoever left the rope anchor at the top | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Bless whoever left the rope anchor at the top |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Clogwyn y Wenallt
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Creagh Dhu Wall Direct
Grade: VS 5a ***
(Craig y Castell (Tremadog))