The main central line of the crag has a powerful start with little in the way of gear.
1) 6a, 30m. Make a steep pull up to a good hold then step right into the main groove. Climb this to a big thread (first good runner) and continue with difficulty to some downward-pointing spikes. Move right into a groove and climb this, using holds on the right wall, to a ledge on the right.
2) 5a, 10m. Finish up the short groove above. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The best way up the first big groove R of Phoenix. Gain the groove from the L, Follow it and a crack in the L wall to a recess. Move R (Clonus LH continues straight up here) and climb a tricky groove to a stance. The second pitch follows an awkward continuation groove. (Up to E4 for reported condition, or absence, of peg at bottom roof).
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