Rockfax Description
A fantastic route and the highlight of this side of the crag. Start in a grassy bay below a clean slab with some thin juggy flakes to aim for above.
1) 4b, 32m. Head up to the flakes and then follow these and pockets up the steep clean slab to an exit right onto a ledge.
2) 12m. Walk right along the vegetated ledge and then go up towards the base of the final pitch below a steep groove.
3) 4c, 21m. The groove is often drier than it appears. Make some amazing 3D bridging moves up the groove to a small ledge below a final crack guarding the final wall to the top. © Rockfax
Ticklists
North Wales Rock Graded List , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , Consolidation VS-HVS , 3 Star - North Wales HS - HVS
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| R_Jo89 | 29 Apr |
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βeta: Mega. 1st pitch a bit bold but never desperate. 2nd was dripping wet - All adds to the adventure | βeta? | |
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βeta: Mega. 1st pitch a bit bold but never desperate. 2nd was dripping wet - All adds to the adventure |
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| paulinepavlova | 14 Nov, 2022 |
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βeta: Left a big silver DMM Wallnut size 10, it's stuck in a pocket on first pitch. We couldn't get it out and then it got dark and we had to abseil off-route. If anyone wants to retrieve and keep for themselves, feel free or if you want to return to me then please message. Don't want the nut rusting and going to waste. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Left a big silver DMM Wallnut size 10, it's stuck in a pocket on first pitch. We couldn't get it out and then it got dark and we had to abseil off-route. If anyone wants to retrieve and keep for themselves, feel free or if you want to return to me then please message. Don't want the nut rusting and going to waste. |
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| useful | 30 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: The trees mentioned in the guide books don\'t exist any more, so don\'t go looking for them! Yes, this route does climb the gopping bottom part of the crack. It\'s not as bad as it looks. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: The trees mentioned in the guide books don't exist any more, so don't go looking for them! Yes, this route does climb the gopping bottom part of the crack. It's not as bad as it looks. |
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| Peter271263 | 19 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: Great route with two contrasting pitches. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Great route with two contrasting pitches. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Clogwyn yr Oen (Moelwyns)
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Oxine
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Clogwyn y Wenallt)