UKC

Rockfax Description
A fantastic route and the highlight of this side of the crag. Start in a grassy bay below a clean slab with some thin juggy flakes to aim for above.
1) 4b, 32m. Head up to the flakes and then follow these and pockets up the steep clean slab to an exit right onto a ledge.
2) 12m. Walk right along the vegetated ledge and then go up towards the base of the final pitch below a steep groove.
3) 4c, 21m. The groove is often drier than it appears. Make some amazing 3D bridging moves up the groove to a small ledge below a final crack guarding the final wall to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , Consolidation VS-HVS , 3 Star - North Wales HS - HVS

Feedback

User Date Notes
R_Jo89 29 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Mega. 1st pitch a bit bold but never desperate. 2nd was dripping wet - All adds to the adventure
βeta?
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βeta: Mega. 1st pitch a bit bold but never desperate. 2nd was dripping wet - All adds to the adventure
paulinepavlova 14 Nov, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Left a big silver DMM Wallnut size 10, it's stuck in a pocket on first pitch. We couldn't get it out and then it got dark and we had to abseil off-route. If anyone wants to retrieve and keep for themselves, feel free or if you want to return to me then please message. Don't want the nut rusting and going to waste.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Left a big silver DMM Wallnut size 10, it's stuck in a pocket on first pitch. We couldn't get it out and then it got dark and we had to abseil off-route. If anyone wants to retrieve and keep for themselves, feel free or if you want to return to me then please message. Don't want the nut rusting and going to waste.
useful 30 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The trees mentioned in the guide books don\'t exist any more, so don\'t go looking for them! Yes, this route does climb the gopping bottom part of the crack. It\'s not as bad as it looks.
Show beta
βeta: The trees mentioned in the guide books don't exist any more, so don't go looking for them! Yes, this route does climb the gopping bottom part of the crack. It's not as bad as it looks.
Peter271263 19 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Great route with two contrasting pitches.
Show beta
βeta: Great route with two contrasting pitches.

Logged Ascents

539 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Clogwyn yr Oen (Moelwyns)

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 75
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 73
Votes cast 69
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Grey Slab

Grade: VS 4b ***
(Glyder Fawr)

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