UKC

4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A tough route with a steep crux.
1) 20m. Start beneath the slab capped by a shield-like flake. Climb direct to the flake.
2) 20m. Pull onto the wall and climb up and left to a steep crack which leads to a belay.
3) 4a, 12m. Move left to below the steep rib, blast up this and gain the ledge on the right.
3a) HVS 5b, 11m. Climb straight up from the belay to a weakness in the roof that leads out left to the slab and onto the same belay. As good as the original but harder.
4) 18m. Follow the corner above to the top. Belay well back. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Pitch 1 is a staightforward romp up the slab on big holds. Pitch 2 cuddles its way up the big flake then steps onto the wall and moves up to a belay below the overhang. Pitch 3 - either hand traverse (harder) or foot traverse (easier) leftwards for about 10m before climbing the unlikely looking rib in a photogenic position, savouring the exposure. Belay on the R.
DON'T scuttle round the corner ofthe overhang, avoiding the rib, and climb the easy corners - this isn't Slack whatever your leader pretends!
Pitch 4 is a short crack and a following chimney/crack to the top.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , Solos , BSR multipitch routes , No you're a punter

Feedback

User Date Notes
Paulghodgson 22 Oct, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Led P1 and p4. Initially thrown by the lack of protection on P1 due to inexperience in leading. However soon got into the swing of things. Went for the wider crack at top of P2 which is very bridgeable. The corner crack of p4 is awesome.
Show beta
βeta: Led P1 and p4. Initially thrown by the lack of protection on P1 due to inexperience in leading. However soon got into the swing of things. Went for the wider crack at top of P2 which is very bridgeable. The corner crack of p4 is awesome.
bethgw 7 Nov, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: My first ever trad climb and/or multipitch! Great fun to be seconding, think leading would have been slightly terrifying, as there was very little protection
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: My first ever trad climb and/or multipitch! Great fun to be seconding, think leading would have been slightly terrifying, as there was very little protection
skinne 22 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Beware shared belay above P3.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Beware shared belay above P3.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Clogwyn yr Oen (Moelwyns)

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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 91
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 88
Votes cast 87
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Poor Man's Peuterey

Grade: S 4a ***
(Craig Pant Ifan (Tremadog))

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