Once known as the "wedged block" project, the impressive overhanging prow forms an eye catching line as you approach across the beach. Before the Rain starts with left hand on a small low edge, right hand on a sloper at the base of the slab, stand cum crouching. Two hard hand moves and a meaty cut, or some tenuous toe hooking, lead you into the higher stand start. The full sit is a project and will be very hard, but may need some work to stabilise the slightly sandy rock low down on the right.

Mike Adams.


North York Moors choice problems


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High f8B
Mid f8B
Low f8B
High f8A+
Mid f8A+
Low f8A+
High f8A
Mid f8A
Low f8A
Route of Interest
El Matador

Grade: f8A+ ***
(Attermire Scar)

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