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Climbs 37
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces all

Crag features

The Coastguard Cliffs are an excellent and justifiably popular sport climbing venue with some of the best and hardest routes on Portland. Nestled beneath these fine cliffs are some huge boulders and a collection of decent boulder problems. It is rare to see anyone bouldering here, which is a pity because the area is very pleasant and is ideal for an evening session, particularly if you are staying at the Portland Bunkhouse.

Approach notes

Drive to Portland Bill and park in the car park (fee). Walk back up the road past the Pulpit Inn and head out leftwards up a minor road towards the Coastwatch lookout. Just before the Coastwatch lookout, go down a grass slope to the cliff edge, then descend a steep and precarious path (rope sometimes in place) onto a promontory. The path gains the boulder beach below the right-hand side of Coastguard North. The Descent Boulders are on the beach to the left (looking out). To reach the North Boulders, contune northwards along the beach for 100m.

No Access Issues

Coastguard North is best known for its collection of steep and powerful hard climbs with many in the high 7s and the area's hardest route at 8a+. The approach is quick and easy and a visit is well worth considering if you are tired of the more crowded Blacknor and Battleship Areas. Coastguard South displays a wide grade range with routes for everybody, with bags of seaside atmosphere. Regular wave cleaning has left a huge crag of weathered rock with the main feature being the fantastic sheet of organ pipe flowstone on the Quick as Rainbows Area.

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